5 comments about West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief.

1. Sometimes a strange disease changes the course of a life. For Steven Kotler, it was Lyme, described by one notable physician as "a very intelligent bacteria." The journey precipitated by these Borrelia burgdorferi lead the author of West of Jesus on a surf trip of sorts. Twin stories of a Conductor who can control the weather and "conduct" the waves, which he hears eight years and thousands of miles apart, lead inexorably to a space where physics and metaphysics converge. Here is an strangely exciting tale of coincidence and serendipity sub-populated with shamans, Tibetan White Buddhists, and kahunas at the intersection of Stoke and Karma - where the Surf Quest, for Kotler, is experienced as a disturbingly real search for the Holy Grail.
   
   Subtitled "Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief," this is an alluring and stimulating tour-de-force that has more to do with mind surfing through the wonders and paradoxes on our times than with riding ocean waves. The book is replete with attractive speculations; like, that humans' competitive advantage in the animal kingdom is to be found most singularly in our long-distance running ability (we're born marathoners; we'll catch anything eventually). This book is a worthy companion for the journey.
   
   Kotler's story of the pursuit of the Conductor didn't click for me (it felt either like a literary device or a bad justification for a rather aimless surf trip). But the trip's the point anyway, and if you can bring along Einstein and Tom Stone and Rabbi Shifren and sundry commentators on altered states of consciousness, well - hey! West of Jesus resonates right along with its shelfmate, Dancing Naked in the Mind Field, by Novel laureate (and surfer) Karry Mullis. It's an enjoyable and enlightening ride, even if you don't get barreled.
   
   - Drew Kampion for The Surfer's Path [www.surferspath.com]



2. The book was decently written but I found myself wondering half way through what the book was actually about. There seems to be an attempt to tie surfing, philosophy and religion together in some way but it never really happens. It seemed the author picked a bunch of theories and tried to force some sort of analogy to his life and surfing but the connections remained unclear. The book does not have any significant conclusion. I forced myself to finish it just to catch the surfing stories which were ok but couldn't stand alone on their own.



3. I didn't know what this was about, but seeing the word "Jesus" in the title above a flying surfboard grabbed me enough to check it out. Turns out, Kotler has put together a pretty interesting project in his book.
   
   I call this a project because it doesn't feel like a novel, an autobiography, or any other nonfiction piece. Kotler goes on a multi-continent journey searching for the origins of a particular surfing myth he was told after a bad wipeout, and along the way he tells us all about his research into zen, weather science, drugs, and human psychology. All of these aspects combine with his first person narrative of interactions with surfers from all over the world to create an entertaining read with all kinds of food for thought and future discussion.
   
   Sadly, while he wraps up the ending in a tidy little package, there's no real or satisfying resolution to his quest. After all the fascinating facts and theories and stories he unloads on his audience, he doesn't really deliver any answers. And maybe that was the point, but it makes me as a reader feel a little gypped.
   
   Still, it's a fun read with a lot of insight and many parts where I laughed out loud, so I definitely recommend it.



4. I'm a surfer/extreme sport athlete. Also have a BS in psychology as well as anthropology. Kotler's blend of humor, story telling, and empirical data in his search for the big question is seriously phenomenal. BUY THIS BOOK!!



5. With dry wit and self-deprecating humor, Steven Kotler examines surfing from a Spiritual perspective, or is it Spirituality from a surfing perspective.
   
   This book answers all the big Spiritual questions in life:
   Why am I here?
   Why do I surf?
   
   Everyone who surfs can relate to observations like, "I was both addicted to surfing and terrified of surfing." But it's a great book even if you don't surf. I just wish my temple had better waves today.

5 comments about Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life.

1. "Surfer's Code" is a unique glimpse into the soul of surfing. While connected by their passion for the ocean, "surfers have a commonality of experience that is special," notes author/surfer Shaun Tomson. From simply living with passion, to staying committed, to sharing one's stoke, lessons learned in the water intertwine with everyday life. Shaun Tomson takes the reader along for a journey, sharing a lifetime of wisdom, while capturing the true essence of the surfer's code - rules derived from surfing but easily translatable in everyday life. "There is something very special about riding on a board while surrounded by moving water." Indeed Shaun couldn't be more correct - the day one becomes a surfer, his or her life will never again be the same. Readers get ready for the ride of a lifetime as Shaun Tompson takes you along on an exhilarating wave that will forever change your perspective on the surfing lifestyle.



2. "This zone where waves give up their energy and where systematic water motions give way to violent turbulence is the surf. It is the most exciting part of the ocean." ~ Williard Bascom, Waves and Beaches
   
   Surfer's Code is a beautifully designed book with a sturdy cover and high-quality pages with stunning photographs of surfing. World-Champion Surfer Shaun Tomson presents his wisdom from the surfing community and translates what he has learned into lessons you can apply to life on land.
   
   The book begins with stories of his father and the beginning of his surfing career. Shaun Tomson reveals the challenges and rewards of surfing all while he focuses on the wisdom gained from his experience: "I learned to trust in all the steps that have gotten me where I am. The result is that I feel better about myself, and I have a lot of fun pushing myself into more challenging situations." He also explains his ideas about why:
   
   I Will Catch a Wave Every Day
   I Will Watch Out for Other Surfers
   There Will Always Be Another Wave
   All Surfers are Joined by One Ocean
   
   If you love surfing than this is an essential read showing the behind-the-scenes reality of a famous surfer. The creative writing, quotes, exciting experiences and lessons learned make this a fascinating mosaic of experience. Throughout his life, Shaun Tomson has faced many challenges and he shares his thoughts on life on land and in the ocean and creates lessons you can take with you while facing your own challenges in life.
   
   "I was flying along in almost complete darkness with the wave breaking around me in slow motion. Suddenly the board dropped back down onto the surface of the water, and I came flying out of the barrel into daylight." ~ pg. 154
   
   ~The Rebecca Review



3. I certainly enjoyed the philosophy and thought provoking points Shaun made throughout his book, Surfer's Code. I only wish all surfers were able read it, especially the young ones that just don't know anything of the history of surfing, its etiquette, and the principles of right of way on the wave. Having surfed since 1956 @ the age of 14, I have litterly grown in the sport and am still very actively surfing today, and I was still able to enjoy and learn from the many of the excellent points Shaun made.



4. This was one of those books that are impossible to put down until you have reached the unexpected emotional end. I found Shaun's elite level surf descriptions immensely enjoyable. I don't surf, but my beloved husband lives the surfer's code, (both in and out of the water), and now I share an inner understanding.
   
   You don't need to be a surfer to enjoy "Surfer's Code". Shaun's 12 lessons don't only apply in the ocean, they can and should be used in all our lives. The world would be a much nicer place! Thanks Shaun. x Cinnamon Stephens



5. I don't often read through surfing related books, although I buy them if written by guys like this whom I watched as a kid from a great distance. They typically sit on my coffee table and serve as boredom busters during commercial breaks. But this book was different, fun, and easy to read. Some good life lesson insights from a guy who admits he is nobody's guru. He admits most of his mistakes and passes on some sage advice for young Groms who are just trying to figure it all out. My favorite rant he gave was in the chapter "I will paddle back out". Very good and inspiring. Good job Shaun.

5 comments about Tapping the Source.

1. I've bought about 10 copies of this book and given 9 away. It's one of the best books ever. Every teenage who is intelligent should read it. My 19 year old son just read it and loved it, too. Well written, dark, satisfying and heart-wrenching, good ending. Fantastic piece of art.



2. A great "SoCal" story. The prose is beautiful and tight and inspiring. The ending is a bit flat, but this story is a journey, not a destination. It's got dark passages, not too gratuitous, and it is ultimately the growth of the main characters that carries the book.
   
   Recommended.



3. People are claiming this is a well plotted novel, but I don't see how. The story goes forward only because Preston is so tight lipped that Ike must stay in Huntington Beach to figure things out. This struck me as a bald-faced plotting device -- rather than something believable evolving out of Preston's character. The ending is fantastically ghoulish, and totally random. Nothing in the story lays the trail for it. Again, it didn't evolve naturally out of what came before. A good story should be a surprise without being a surprise, if that makes any sense.
   
   On the positive side character development is very good, for Ike and Hound especially.



4. Three and half stars. Outstanding for the most part, fatally flawed near the end. A grim tale of wasted talent and paradise lost. As second generation SoCal, I witnessed the transtion of the OC from a great place to live into an overcrowded, often violent/amoral sprawl. Nunn's characters and atmosphere spot-on. Some nice slices of irony, particularly with the title. Occasionally marred by verbosity, but mostly lucid -- met the challenge of describing surfing. Narrative was well-paced, suspenseful, driving to anticipated revelation, then clunk -- a preposterous climax dissolving several characters. Too bad, because as I read along, I had high hopes for a real work of art. Ultimately, TAPPING THE SOURCE speaks to the thousands of talented (and not so talented) young people who wasted it all in the pursuit of getting high. Another stain on the progressive philosophy of life...



5. A fantastic book, great story, characters are compelling, and if you surf you will especially be captivated from beginning to end (you'll still enjoy the book even if you don't surf). In my top 10 for all-time reads.

5 comments about The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer.

1. I have been surfing for 20 years and I have yet to read a book that breaks down the essentials of surfing as well as this book does. It's very easy to read and contains a lot of helpful photos. I picked up numerous tips on technique and cross-training that have already improved my surfing!



2. This author has all the jargon down but I bet he's a big kook with a lot of degrees who's cashing in on surfing.If you want to surf better surf more!It's not what you do but how you execute it, you don't learn it in a book you learn it on the water. I don't know what I was thinking, why do I want to learn surfing from a skiing coach?



3. After surfing for over 15 years no book can really teach you how to surf. Skiing is far from surfing, in fact a swim coach would probably have a better idea of how to condition for surfing. I would say put down your cash for some surf wax and get out, there is no need to buy this book. Seems like the author trying to cash in on surfing and can he surf, maybe but not very many years in the water.



4. I feel some of the other reviews were a too harsh. I first read the book at Borders and really liked it :) Obviously no book or video compares to time spent in the water but I found the book to be very good and informative. Most "learn to surf" books always seem to contain the same basic info (paddling, popping-up, duck-diving) but this book goes far beyond and can be appreciated by the advancing-beginner & intermediate surfers looking to improve. I'm hoping to teach a surfing class at the college I work for & would seriously consider recommending this book for any surfing students. The other book I really liked was Taj Burrow's Book of Surfing but I believe is for more advanced surfers and contains too much surf jargon & slang for the beginners.



5. some of the review are too critical. The author does a great job of breaking down surfing etiquite as well as providing beginning, intermediate and advanced tips that can be used for all surfers. I have checked out other books and while they are good I find this book to be a great reference for those of us who try to surf as often as we can. the conditioning tips are very progressive and opened new facets of training for myself and some friends.

5 comments about Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning.

1. Since I don't get to surf everyday, this book is exactly what I needed to stay in surfing shape. I have a number of other fitness related books, but none address surfing fitness. This book gave me exactly what I've been looking for. I've since given it to a number of friends and they have all told me how helpful they have found it as well.



2. if your learning how to surf and want to progress in this sport then you should chech this book out. full of many different kinds of workouts and it evens plans out workouts that fit your life style....a must have to your surf collection....



3. This is a nice guide for a newbie, for the wanna be pro, and for the top pro. I recommend it, but it lacks some more fine explanation and guidance, in terms of what we eat, how much we sleep, etc... basic performance stuff. Also, it gives us a lot of workouts, witch is very good, but it's more fitted to a person who has 4 hours to work out everyday, not 1.



4. This book can be a good start for improving your surfing level.



5. From new surfers all the way through professional, this surfing guide will help you improve your skill. Great workouts for the surfer are included.

1 comments about Surfing Photographs from the Seventies Taken by Jeff Divine.

1. this is an amazing book- some of the best surf pictures (in my opinion) during one of the most visually inspiring era's of surfing. the pages are arranged in such a way so as to not distract you from their content, the printing is awesome and there's not a single shot not worthy of a poster size above your bed. this book will not harsh your mellow- it will make you want to move to lucadia, ride only a single fin & get a job wrapping surf wax for .25 cents per bar....

5 comments about Maui Trailblazer: Where to Hike, Snorkel, Paddle, Surf, Drive.

1. All the fun stuff. My teenage boys loved it and wanted to try everything they listed. Our hikes were group affairs, waterfall destinations being first choice, Haleakala took second. This book is organized by region with all the activities linked to the highway mile markers and cross referenced on the interior maps. This saved us time and we also spent less on gas.
   
   In six days we really covered ground. We drove the entire beautiful coast stopping here and there to snorkel where they indicated it was best for beginners. Excels when it comes to easily finding the snorkeling and hiking zones and wild beaches. We are big Trailblazer fans now.



2. Beaches are the reason we went to Maui and this was the guide we used to find them. There were several dozen to higrade. When we arrived we noticed many of the street signs were missing or twisted the wrong way so we navigated using the maps and mile markers in the Trailblazer guide. Even our rental car map didn't have the detailed streets this book had.
   
   We have three kids and they spent hours and hours boogieboarding and their UV protected rashguards that we also bought on Amazon paid off plenty. The bike tours were closed so we hiked in Haleakala State Park. Trail distances we needed and trail distances we got. We felt like we were on another planet. They suggested we bring warm clothes and water, thank goodness we did.
   
   Organized, detailed, dangerous places to avoid, the advice was priceless. This was our first time on Maui and this book really did blaze the trail.



3. We decided to visit two islands because we had heard how different they were: Maui and the Big Island. We chose the trailblazer books to guide us since they were both crammed with incredibly helpful information. For hikers and snorkelers and sightseers they are a gold mine. They are written in clear language and the outings are well arranged with accompanying maps.
   
   The tips for getting out to Hana were treasure trove status and put us out in front of the chain of cars we saw heading out at 2pm. Leaving at 7:30 am before the tour buses made all the difference. We could have used another few days on Maui and regret taking only one hike down into the crater. We plan another visit in 2009 and our first order of business will be watching the sunrise on Haleakala and taking a helicopter tour.
   
   Thanks Trailblazers for sharing and demystifying wowie Maui.



4. Where this one shines: compact and to the point, definitely our style. It covers all of the island and the hikes they list inside Haleakala Crater and near Hana were terrific. Bring your binoculars for the whale and windsurfer action. We had several guides with us, but the most consistent useful information came from this one.
   
   Friends asked us how we saw and experienced so much in just a week and we attribute it to doing our homework first - mapping it all out with the Trailblazer.



5. The places we did get to check out were awesome. I know we wouldn't have found the "aquarium" without this book and that was our favorite snorkel spot. I wish we had more time in maui to explore.

5 comments about In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road.

1. I bought this book for my boyfriend who lives for surfing. I ended up reading it myself and it's a good book about a man surfing for great waves (isn't that the way it always is?!) in Costa Rica and Central America. It's entertaining and interesting.



2. If you are unfamiliar with the works of A.C. Weisbecker, you might consider skiping this if you are looking for an impulse buy. "In Search of Captain Zero" is a memoir of Weisbecker's trip through South America in the mid-1990's. If you are looking for a fictional tale with a good story I recommend "Cosmic Banditos" by the same author.
   
   If you are familiar with Weisbecker's works that I highly recommend "In Search of Captain Zero." The story is considerably slower than with "Cosmic Banditos," but the real treat with "Captain Zero" is its insight into his first work. "Cosmic Banditos" was loosely based off of Weisbecker's real life experiences and here we are told the real stories that inspired the cult classic.
   
   Aside from the connection to the previous book, the story of "Captain Zero" revolves mostly around Weisbeckers quest to find his long lost surf-buddy and partner in crime "Christopher." Christopher headed to South America some five years earlier in search of "his own piece of Paradise" and the perfect coast with the perfect wave. As Weisbecker's own life takes a turn for the worse, he gets rid of all of his belongings and takes a road trip with only his dog, his memories and an old photograph of his friend, in the hopes of making some sense of his life.
   
   A.C. Weisbecker's style of writing can be very coarse and in-your-face. He seldom writes in a tone to please his readers, but rather he effectively puts his emotions in the context of his worldview on paper. A genuinely unique storyteller, Weisbecker brings you into his world without becoming longwinded.
   
   If you enjoyed "Cosmic Banditos" you owe it to yourself to pick this book up. You will either love it or hate it.



3. A very different kind of surfing story. For those that that are into surfing and travel it's pretty cool. It's a good adventure surfing story. I started reading it on an island in Panama durring a surf trip which gives me a different perspective. It definetly made me want to keep traveling/surfing. For the non surfing types, I have no idea how it would be recieved....



4. This book appealed on so many levels. Want a good surf adventure, you got it. Like a nice travelogue, it hits there too. Want an excellent character study, absolutely. If you want to shake your head while laughing out loud, you get that here also. It was a book that was fun and yet thought provoking, strongly recommended.



5. There's nothing like a surfing trip to Costa Rica with flashbacks to drug dealing days to make for a great literary achievement.
   
   The book may be $10.00, but the chapter on "The Boat" is priceless! I've bought at least 10 copies to give to my friends to read. It is a true classic.
   
   How this book has gone this long without being made into a movie is incomprehensible.

5 comments about Kauai Trailblazer: Where to Hike, Snorkel, Bike, Paddle, Surf (.

1. A must to throw into your backpack when heading out to the trails. All of the information you will need to plan a day of hiking, biking, or paddeling is in this one little book.



2. Ordered this book before our Jan. trip to Kauai. We have been on this island many times, but this book gave us lots of info about trails. It tells you the difficult trails, the easy trails, how to get there, what to know before you start, etc. Really a very good buy for hikers who want to see more of this beautiful island.



3. Have only made it partially through the book and am very impressed with the outline and the depth of knowledge of the subject. My wife and i are returning to PoiPou on the south shore at the end of April, 2008 and we are making daily plans from this book.



4. We returned this year with their new third edition for 2008 and found remarkable changes. Hiking the Kalalau Trail again.....was even better the second time around. When it comes to organization and finding ez access to all the cool trails, this one is the winner. The strategies for getting around this beautiful island were incredibly useful.



5. Guess where my wife wants to take me on her summer vacation? Hint: she likes lush resorts with hiking opportunities.
   
   I've been to the other islands of Hawaii several times, but never to Kauai. I don't need the usual 50 pages of cajoling to enjoy myself that most guidebooks feature, and in this era of goooogle, I certainly don't need out-of-date hotel listings. This is a book crammed with info that I may find useful when I get there, concerning the rugged activities that make flying all those hours worthwhile, written in a plain and honest prose. I'd venture to say that this is the most convincing guidebook I've ever encountered.
   
   Another reviewer complains about the absence of maps. I'd agree that lack fo maps would be a problem, except that the maps one finds in other guidebooks are almost always next to useless. My advice: get a real full-sized map and correlate!

5 comments about All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora.

1. EXCELLENT BOOK! David Rensin wrote a very interesting book about Miki Dora as told by many people who actually knew Miki! David Rensin did not try to tell the story from his point of view or as being a judge of Miki Dora's life! The reader is free to take a peak into his life and then draw their own conclusion as to who the person Miki Dora actually was and what kind of life he lived. Lot's of interviews with Dora's friends and enemies and this book is his life and times through their eyes. Very well done!



2. I can hardly begin to tell you how very much I enjoyed this book about Miki. It is so well written and so rich in it's descriptions. I felt like I was there with him from Malibu to Africa and France. Knowing Miki in the 50's and 60's, all of my encounters with him were favorable. He loaned me surfboards, treated me and my daughter with courtesy and always had something interesting or funny to say. I wept reading the part about his beloved "Scooter Boy" and his own involvement with his death. What a tremendous tragedy for anyone to go through and especially Miki as that dog was the closest and most loved being in his life. You are a fantastic writer David. Miki was an incredible person and for you to capture him in the manner that you have is brilliant. His Dad must have high regard for your book. I would be proud that I had a son that was so unique and marched to a different drummer than anyone else. He had a pure, pure love for the sea and nature in spite of his many short-comings. In a very strange way he knew a lot about some of what is important in life.
   
   Toni Donovan Colvin



3. Growing up in San Diego in the 60s and having read biographies of Greg Noll and Mike Doyle already, I idolized the surf scene and have followed it from my landlocked location. Dora is the ultimate enigma. Wants the attention when he wants it but wants to be elusive also. But what he really wanted more than anything, was the post WWII check out of society and never have to work, the ultimate Surf Bum but with taste. And really, he accomplished this. BUT, sometimes the methods to achieve this didn't square with the law so Dora was granted the opportunity to spend time in prison after an international search involving all major police bodies.
   
   As he approaches his unfortunate death Dora seems to come to grips with who he is, the powers he possesses and the desire to set things right. And then after death, the ultimate surprise that is pure Dora. If you want to know about the surf culture at the beginning, USA in the late 50s early 60s, or a fascinating tale of a bizarre intersting person, read this book. Not a typical life, but a life well lived.



4. I'm not a surfer and feel that being so would make this one a bit more interesting. Some jargon and stories that would be better if you could relate.



5. This is a well-researched book about a semi-famous con artist and grifter. The man who invented localism, one of surfing's ugliest manifestations, is presented as some kind of exalted being for his appearance of never having "sold out", while cheating, lying, stealing, forging passports, and promoting himself to his advantage at every opportunity. This story would have been far more interesting had the author provided some insight into Miki Dora the SURFER, which I presume is his primary motivation and after all, is what he was originally known for-surfing at Malibu "in the day". Without a good feel for the man as a surfer, and discussion of his style, wave preference or performance in the water, and other aspects of him as a surfer, we get a picture of a person behaving selfishly and irresponsibly, period. Why make a 450-page biography about a surfer without discussing that aspect of his life? I could have done without all of the apologists trying to make him out as some kind of wise sage because he was so misunderstood. Oh, poor Miki, who pretended to be broke while making his friends put him up and take care of his every need, then died with $400,000.00 in the bank. Poor fella. Face it, he was a sham who promoted himself into a myth that just didn't exist. Was he a good surfer? Worthy of the reputation? I don't know. I'll have to wait for another book to get that part of his life, I guess.