3 comments about Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna.

1. Lionel Terray was one of the great clasic climbers and this book captures the spirit of those days. The accounts of the climbs are very richly told, they are not technical descriptions but beautiful stories told by a man who devoted his existence to the mountains. Anyone interested in the sport of climbing can benefit from this book, not from the technical side but from the spiritual side and the historical value of the many first ascents by Terray.



2. Not just anyone has it in them to take on the more modern adventure of mountain climbing. "Conquistadors of the Useless" is the autobiography of French adventurer Lionel Terray, telling of his long and eventful life. Born in 1921, he began his adventuring at only the age of twelve and let up very rarely until a freak accident caused his death at forty-four years of age. An edition updated with much more information on the man who revolutionized post-World War II Mountain climbing, "Conquistadors of the Useless" is a must for any mountain climber who wants to embrace the activity's history.



3. Lionel Terray's book is a hidden gem. Terray was a well-rounded true mountaineer. He got his start in the French military mountain patrol during World War II. His unit would scale mountains in proximity to, but higher than, German camps and then spread machine gun fire in the camp's vicinity. Never really aiming at the camp itself lest they hurt someone. How French! This book is richly narrated and includes chapters on Terray's ascent of the Eigerwand, and Annapurna among others. If you read this book you may get the idea that there are some mountaineers who do have some common sense. Terray was satisfied at times to put up a second ascent (Eiger) rather than risk all on a daring first-ascent, which in those days was usually suicide. He was on Maurice Herzog's Annapurna team and luckily was not on the summit team , most of whom survived but with fewer limbs. I highly recommend this book. It's great armchair reading.

3 comments about Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series).

1. Eric Horst is THE expert on training for climbing. This book is by far the most up-to-date and complete source on everything from the mental to technical to the physical aspects relating to climbing. It provides and explains the concepts in simple terms and provides the scientific reasoning behind them. Proven strategies that work.



2. It is a MUST for any climber, regardless of age, sex, skills or style - it really helps one improve results fast by better understanding how the body acts and reacts before, during and after climing.
   
   It really covers everything a climber needs to know and more.



3. Amazing book
   I love the mental and physical training sections
   however it has lack of information (pictures) in technical training

2 comments about Conditioning for Climbers: The Complete Exercise Guide (How To Climb Series).

1. Eric Horst's book, Conditioning for Climbers, is a winner. As an almost 61 year old climber, I can truly appreciate its comments about warming up, stretching, etc.
   
   I have been active my entire adult life with bicycle racing, running, Colorado peak bagging, weight lifting, and rock climbing. I have read dozens of books on training from the basic physiology of training to sport specific. Until now, every sport, except rock climbing, has sport specific literature. With Conditioning for Climbers, rock climbing now has a well written, well researched and well presented state-of-the-art book specific to conditioning for climbing.



2. This book is perfect for a library in any indoor rock gym. I recommend it as well as others simliar to it for rock wall libraries.

5 comments about Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert).

1. This book does a great job of teaching all the minimalist tricks climbers use to complete the tasks industrial rope workers would use mechanical devices for.
   While most of the information will be familiar to experienced rope workers there are a few bits of information which are real gems. It belongs on every climbers/rat's bookshelf for this reason.
   Criticisms:
   1) The illustrations are great, the pictures are useless and as a result some knot techniques are indecipherable.
   2) There are many scenarios used to hone your skills, seems more like filler.
   3) On a artistic note the reverse gender specific format is so contrived and over the top that by the time I was finished the book I was sick of the authors sexism! I suppose using exclusionary language is an attempt at revenge but in the case of all the rescues it suggests women spend a lot of time needing rescue. If you're a male expect to roll your eyes a lot! Also there was some unprofessional jargon, such as differentiating anchors as being "bomber" or not. oh well, thats climbers for ya.



2. Ok, I'm fairly new to outdoor climbing, and if I got into some of the situations described here, I would just hang on the rope and scream like a little girl until someone more experienced told me what to do.
   
   That said, if you're willing to spend several hours practicing the techniques, this book will boost your confidence considerably. I think it's more applicable to multipitch climbs, however the techniques are applicable to rappelling as well.
   
   Don't expect to read it and know how to traverse a knot while rappelling. Until you try the techniques a few times and get familiar, you shouldn't trust them while on the rock.



3. I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half, some multi-pitch. Just started leading trad this season, thought it was time to learn how to manage accidents/crises. This book has been just right for me. I have Freedom of the Hills, but this covers self-rescue in more depth ("self" means your party, as opposed to calling for search and rescue). It touches just briefly on ice climbing/big wall, covering topics that are applicable to most types of climbing. Table of contents: The Basics, Rescue Knots, Escaping a Belay, Descending, Ascending, Raising, Passing Knots, Scenarios and Solutions, Getting Outside Help (33 pages of 29 scenarios/solutions). The authors do a nice job of directing you to other resources outside the scope of the book. Concise, well organized chapters that build on each other logically. Set up to read straight through but also easy to reference specific topics/knots. Easy to follow diagrams/instructions. Nice mix of photos/illustrations.



4. Must read if you take climbing seriously. It's a book to have in your bag and in your head!



5. I own Sylvan Rocks Climbing School here in the Black Hills of South Dakota. I see more epics (with other parties) then I care to admit. If you are going out climbing, the knowledge in this book is no optional. Gravity plays for keeps and when something bad starts and gravity takes over, its hard to stop. When it does stop, if you know how to pick up the pieces and use the knowledge offered up in this book, you will greatly improve your chances of getting yourself and your partner down safely.
   
   Sending your project climb is perhaps more fun, but taking the time to read and practice the techniques laid out in these pages is essential knowledge. Going climbing without understanding the basics of self rescue is like driving without a seat belt. Its all fine until you need it.
   
   When we have guest that comes to us wanting to learn how to use these skills I recommend they read this book before they spend the day with us.

5 comments about Between a Rock and a Hard Place.

1. I love the honest, well written description of this miraculous self-rescue. I recommend Aron's book to anyone who feels like they need more adventure in their life, or anyone who has a love of steep terrains and deep canyons. His battle of wits with a black bear was one of my favorite parts. I think he is a natural narrator and gifted writer.



2. I received this book from Amazon in a very timely fashion and couldn't wait to get my hands on it. Ralston's book was recommended by a member of my book club. I found it spellbinding, almost surreal in it's content, and Ralston's writing ability to put me in his shoes from the first page to the last. I literally couldn't put it down and felt a great sense of loss when I'd finished it.
   
   I highly recommend this autobiography to friends and family. It is high adventure with the added realization of what the human body and mind can endure.
   
   Superb!
   
   Irene



3. think this guy is the sharpest tack in the box. I don't take financial advice from poor people or take marital advice from divorced peolpe. I guess this guy has some kahones but at times I felt like I was reading about a foolish person doing foolish things. Is that to be admired? Not in my book, can I get my money back?



4. Between a Rock and a Hard Place is about 2 boys who go to a resort up in the mountains with their dads. The problem is that they really don't get along with their dads very well. One day the boys decide that they are going to go on their own little trip and let their dads go fishing by themselves. What they did not know was that they were going to have to work for their survival and do everything that their dads had taught them.
   
   In the start of the book, a boy named Randy who has the most problems with his family life is really messed up and he also has diabetes. The other boy named Mark is Randy's cousin and he also has some family problems, but not as heavy as Randy. When they finally get going on their trip, the boys have to use all that their dads had told them, but it always doesn't work.
   
   This book was probably one of the best books I have read about survival and how close you can get with somebody when they are the only friend that you have in a bad situation out there. I would recommend this book to anybody who is looking for an adventure and likes reading exciting books that sometimes gives them cold chills down their spines.



5. I loved this book so much. It's a true page turner. This book has action through every page. I give it a high five stars

5 comments about Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series).

1. Craig's departure leaves a scar in the heart of the climbing community, and he will be dearly missed.
   
   I recommend you consider buying this book because:
   1. it's simply the best one out there on anchors, written by a certified guide, gear inventor, and bad-a** climber
   2. two Luebbens have been left behind, and the proceeds will probably help send his 5yo daughter to college some day.
   
   Read on about the tragic accident at [...] and [...].
   
   Be safe out there! Too many talented and experienced climbers have been lost recently.



2. Good book going over the basics and the reasons why you do things; clearly explained. Would recommend for a beginner to intermediate.



3. Much better than the `other' climbing anchors book. Not only more comprehensive, but lacking some misinformation that can be found elsewhere. Describes and provides photos of nearly every technique I've ever learned, plus some new ones.



4. All the knowledge that you need to know and hopefully won't need to use ever. It's a most for every serious climber.



5. Very hands on informative information which has been tested by thousands of climbers and includes aspects as security and speed.

5 comments about Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert).

1. for a new climber this book was awesome! It is really a great addition to "Freedom of the Hills". I would recomend this book to anyone starting out, great pictures and instructions.



2. This book covers all the basics from climbing techniques for all sorts of different types of climbing, such as face climbing, crack climbing, etc, to how to sport and trad climb. I use it a lot to refresh my memory on different types of nots used in building anchors and how to get off belay to potentially help the second climber coming up. I also learned lots about different types of top belaying. It doesn't always contain intricate details of everything, but for that there are the individual books dedicated to specific aspects of climbing from the same publisher.



3. It's an easy read and it gives a lot of good information, but I think the illustrations were lacking. Especially the sections of tying knots (it seemed like he was missing steps at times) and equipment descriptions (he'd name off all sorts of gear, but not show a picture of each one). The pictures are in black and white, so it didn't seem like you'd have to try very hard to include lots of them.
   
   I wasn't thinking of using the book as a training manual, but I wanted to make sure I had the concepts right when taking my classes, so I would know the questions I needed to ask.



4. Definitely not the best book out there. I've read a bunch of this books and actually wish I wouldn't spend the money on this one... may be you want to try another one.



5. that the best instructions you get from Luebben and the skills you acquire are no match for Mother Nature. Craig Luebben is dead after being hit by debris from falling ice in the North Cascades 2009.

5 comments about The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance.

1. Unfortunately, the quality was not as expected.The plastic from the cover is missing in some extend!If you were a real bookstore I would return the item.



2. Excellently written analysis of training for rock climbing. Precisely described activities and training plans for all levels of climbers. Attached DVD is a great visual guide to all training methods.



3. The text is well illustrated and the accompanying DVD has a number of practice exercises that it goes through to help you develop your climbing skills. Particularly useful if you have access to a climbing gym with a wall not too busy for doing traverses on.



4. This book is well put together and the authors did a commendable job overall.
   Why only two stars then?
   If you're just starting out with training for climbing (note: I didn't say climbing) this is a good choice as it
   covers everything you need to know to create a training schedule for yourself.
   Having said that, this book really contains nothing that could not be found on the internet for free. Sure, there are the chapters on movement and balance that make for interesting reading. Again, they're doing a good job trying to convey something that simply cannot be taught in a book. It's like those 'how to paint light in watercolor books', where the author is telling you what paints he used to do the sky in a painting. It just doesn't work, because there is no formula, you either feel it or you don't. In climbing, you learn movement by climbing, not by reading about it - as simple as that.
   
   Furthermore, no amount of sexy movement will get you up harder climbs. It all comes down to strength and power.
   I don't agree with them saying that 'being able to do one arm pull-ups and radical campus moves is insignificant'.
   Funny then, that it's always people who can do those things who climb 8a's and 8b's...
   
   Again, not trying to be 'Mr. Know-it-all' here, I just think there are certain truths in rock climbing just as in any other sport and if you want to improve your climbing, say from 5.13a to 5.13d (7c+ to 8b) you most likely won't do exercises on slabs with tennis balls in your hands. But that's just my opinion.
   
   I think the problem is trying to write a training book that would cover beginners and advanced climber alike.
   It doesn't work and, let's face it, there would not be much to write about if you only address the elite!
   The book claims to be a 'guide to movement training performance' - no argument here...



5. If you're a beginner or a rock master, but willing to improve, then this book is for you. It explains the principles of ascending with exercises that you can practice in the gym or on the rock! It's the best book about climbing technique I've read so far.

5 comments about Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff.

1. I could have saved over $1500 in doctor and physical therapy bills had I read this book after the first Dr visit. If you have shoulder pain, please don't hesitate, buy this book! I now have an immense respect for Jim Johnson.
   
   After 5 months of little progress, I finally found this book and about 6 weeks later I'm back to all my normal sports, full tilt.
   
   The research on strength building and stretching in general was mind blowing! Wow, how could this information be so hidden? Unfortunately, too many people profit from non-health.
   
   JJ will show you the absolute fastest and most efficient way to fix your shoulder. By all means, get several opinions before getting surgery. Both doctors left surgery on the table when my tear was very minor.
   
   Yes, they do not want you to read this book!
   
   Jim, if you're reading this, thank you from the bottom of my heart! You are a great man.
   
   P.S. Even if you never had any back issues, buy his back book. After you build up core strength in your back (2 minutes, 3 times a week, yes, really) then you only need to do it once a week to maintain that strength. And no stretching needed. A small price to pay to avoid back pain.



2. Unlike another critical reviewer here, I think that there is great benefit to understanding how your rotator cuff works before detailing exercises for strengthening it. To this aim, Wikipedia can help greatly. If you can't seem to grasp the information on Wikipedia, maybe this book would be a good bet.
   
   However, I, for one, didn't care for having to sort through pages substance-anemic content to cherry-pick the useful bits; it took me a day to review what I should have been able to glean in one hour.
   
   For example, do I need, in my book on rotator cuffs, to read three pages about how a randomized controlled trial works? IF I don't already know, then I can look it up. Or put it in a glossary; that's what glossaries are for. Do I need to read wordy, precise details of each study? Cite the study, describe the outcome, and be done with it. _Maybe_ put the details in an appendix; either way, I can look it up later if I like. Do I need constant repetition, reminding, and teaching that appears to be geared toward a child? If you read each of these critiques thinking, "that's exactly what I need!" then you won't be disappointed.
   
   "Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff" is not a cheap book, and there honestly isn't a whole lot of content. It _does_ contain some useful information, but getting to this information with the limited table of contents, without section references, with no table of diagrams, with random pointless tangents, and with NO INDEX, can be frustrating.



3. I BOUGHT THIS TO HELP ME WITH SHOULDER PAIN FROM TOO MUCH SQUASH THE BOOK IS FULL OF GREAT EXERCISES AND I WAS ENCOUAGED TO USE IT MORE AND MORE WITH THE EXERCISES AND SOME MASSAGE THERAPY I WAS BACK ON THE SQUASH COURT WITHIN 8 WEEKS I FOUND IT EASY TO READ AND VERY HELPFUL I SUGGEST ANYONE WHO USES IT WITH MASSAGE THERAPY WILL HAVE POSITIVE RESULTS



4. This book gives great insight as to the working of the shoulder,as well as all of the connecting tissues. This is not written on such a level that you will not understand the text, it is clear cut with direct ideas, that will save you having to go to a rehab center and pay big bucks to learn. I would suggest buying this book if you ever had a shoulder injury.



5. A thousand thank yous to Mr. Johnson for being one of the very few self-help-book authors to base all of his recommendations on well-designed scientific studies. On this point alone, Mr. Johnson's book stands head-and-shoulders above nearly all others of its ilk. A job very-well done!
   The next reason that I really like this book is that it only takes a few minutes per day to do the exercises. Yes, folks, rehabilitating your shoulders can really be done without needing to place the rest of your life on hold to make time for endless physical-therapy visits and countless mind-numbingly-boring exercises. While the exercises are still mind-numbingly-boring, you can finish them up well before your favorite news program has finished its coverage of the war in Afghanistan and moved on to the war in Iraq!
   And are the exercises in the book effective? I have to admit that as soon as I realized that they were based on actual scientific evidence, my placebo response went into full swing, and my shoulders felt better before I had even started the exercises!
   However, I've now been doing the exercises for around three months, long-enough for the placebo response to wear off, and my shoulders have definitely improved. The trick for me is to be consistent and do the exercises as specified. I found that it helped to read the book a second time, because I had missed and forgotten important details.
   I highly recommend this book!

5 comments about Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills.

1. This is a must have book. It covers all areas of climbing in great detail. Very happy and look forward to the 8th edition that will bring additions to new techniques developed in the last few years.The book arrived Super quick and I am an expat living in South Korea. Very happy!



2. The one and only mountaineering bible!
   
   Noobs- Start here!
   Read it cover to cover- Find a seasoned climber to show you the ropes- Welcome to your new way of life :-D



3. Great book, everything I expected it to be and more. Lots of knowledge in it, too much to learn in reading it once.



4. It's really not that complicated, if you are going to climb mountains you simply have to own this book. It is the most fundamental guide to mountain climbing skills that exists. Each skill is presented clearly and illustrated in such a manner that you can learn them safely and efficiently.
   
   I have led several groups of novices up Mt. Rainier. In each case, we start training 8-12 months before the climb and use this book as the textbook. Using the chapters on ice travel, glaciers, ropes, and techniques, we work through each technique with Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills as the guide, illustration and reference. They learn the way I did, using the experience of the masters over the years recorded by The Mountaineers.



5. This book is a must for any climber/outdoor enthusiast! It really is the bible of climbing! You wont regret this purchase.