1 comments about Minwax 30907 Formby's Furniture Face Lift Kit.

1. Forby's Face Lift Kit is the best way to make old furniture look great. I have been using this product for years. It takes only 3 steps to go from old to new. First you Clean the furniture with the cleansing liquid then buff it with the buffing cream. The last step is to apply the finish. This is the hardest part because you have to wait 4 hours to apply the 2nd coat of finish. You must make sure it is dry or the next coat wont look as good. This product is amazing.

1 comments about Dremel 546-01 1-1/4-Inch Diameter Rip/Crosscut Blade.

1. I purchased the product... but since there was no mention of needing a seperate shank to mount blade, something I assume you have to purchise seperatly since there was no shank in package and no mention of same on product page... It has turned out to be completely useless.

1 comments about Bosch CB1280 Construction Series 12-Inch 80 Tooth ATB Crosscutting Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor.

1. Bought mine from Amazon for $40 when the Irwin blade I had originally bought from Amazon arrived quite warped and I sent it back. The Bosch is a good blade, flat, thin kerf, clean cuts, American made. Not as pretty as some of the more expensive blades, but I don't see how they would do a better job and justify their additional cost. Kind of chintsy cardboard packaging it come in, though. Even the Irwin came in a plastic sleeze pack that facilitates safe storage.

5 comments about Freud SC-001 3-1/2-Inch Blade Stabilizer with 5/8-Inch Arbor for 7-Inch Saws or Larger.

1. I purchased this set because I noticed a little bit of wobble in my blade as I shut down the machine even though the blade is tight against the arbor. I had some doubt as to how much effect stabilizer would have on the blades performance. My package noted that these were two sets. I gave the other one to a woodworking buddy. I am completely satisfied and impressed with this stabilizer. It completely eliminated the blade wobble at start up and shut down of my saw. I had one thing that abolutely puzzled me. I installed the stabilizer on the outside of the blade on my right tilt saw. There should have been no change in the blade placement. My zero clearance insert would not go over the blade. It rubbed probably a 1/64th of an inch or so. I lowered the blade all the way down, put in the insert and powered up my saw. I then raised the blade. It cut the expected 1/64th of an inch or so and I let it run a minute to clear out the insert. I was amazed at how well the stabilizer worked. No more wobble. I own a Delta contractor saw with cast iron extensions and tons of add ons. I am completely sold on this product. I am certain that my old arbor flange was slightly warped, although I never noticed it. I highly recommend this product and it is so inexpensive.



2. Useless and overpriced gudget. Blade can't be placed on calibrated 5/8" shaft and sits over the thread. As a result balance is off and you can't turn on a saw without the risk of blowing your brains out.



3. The Freud SC-001 3-1/2-Inch Blade Stabilizer is a well manufactured, simple product. It certainly improves blade stability. The blade feels firmer once installed. However, adding these to your table saw will likely require a large amount of effort that isn't well mentioned in previous reviews, unless I missed it.
   
   One reviewer recommends adding only a single stabilizer on the outside of the blade. I tried this, out of curiosity, and quickly discovered that this warps the blade by a significant amount, since the built-in stabilizer on the other side of the blade is likely going to be smaller in diameter (If not, I don't see how these stabilizers would serve much purpose, anyway!).
   
   When I began to install the expected two stabilizer configuration, I had an 'uh-duh' moment, in which I realized that installation of the inside stabilizer shifts the center-point of the blade! Seemed pretty obvious a little later than I'd have hoped! This means that you will have to reposition your splitter, as well as replace any zero-clearance inserts you use, and in my case, may not be able to use your stock insert. In my case (a Jet JWTS-10), I had to shim all of the mount points for the splitter with matching washers, as the adjustment slots at these points were not wide enough to compensate for the stabilizer. Adding the washers and lining the splitter up with the newly positioned blade was an intricate affair.
   
   There is also a small element of danger added when using these stabilizers, in that when bringing the blade up while spinning, which is called for, once in a while, the stabilizers can lift the insert, which would, of course, send it flying like a missile. Similarly, make certain that the added height obtained by the higher stabilizer when angling the blade does not bring it in contact with the insert; in some instances, the blade may have to be lowered when angling it, so that this will not occur. I believe there are adjustable stops inside the saw cabinet that can limit movement. At my next free chance, I will be looking to make such an adjustment to limit the risk, at least for the upper limit on the blade height.
   
   I haven't yet determined whether the stabilizers affect the runout of the blade. I will look into this soon. Now that I've committed to using the stabilizers, I think this would be the only negative side effect that would prompt me to remove them. All the same, I'm not sure I would have started on this path if I could start again!



4. I agree with the review that you should stabilize your saw and not your blade, but at some point you are going to want a blade stabilizer. If you do a lot of crosscuts/miters on your table saw it really helps out to give you that "shinny" crosscut. This stabilizer is the worst that could ever have been invented. Who wants to have their blade offset approx 1/4"? There are two stabilizers in the kit and I have yet to see a table saw that you can remove the original flange mounted to the arbor so you don't warp your blade with only one stabilizer. (The stabilizer is larger than most arbor flanges) Freud really should have thought out this design. They make wonderful blades, but this product makes them look like idiots. You have to adjust your fence to compensate. Homemade box cutting jigs are shot. The only nice thing is that they are not as large as other blade stabilizers. I threw this one in the trash and bought the forest 5" blade stabilizer. Does everything I want. I can use it with my dado. Which is a Freud. DO NOT USE ONLY ONE OF THESE. That can cause serious injury or death.



5. Following some of the other review suggestions, I bought the set and installed one plate on my table saw and one on my radial arm saw. Between adding a link belt and the stabilizer to my table saw, I now have virtually no vibration in the table saw. With the radial arm saw being direct drive there was less noticeable difference for vibration, but the saw cut is beautiful. I especially like the 3.5" size of these plates in that they take away very little cutting depth from my 10" saws. I would recommend them as a simple and inexpensive way to upgrade the quality of your saws.

4 comments about AO Safety 97490 LED Light Vision V2 Safety Glasses.

1. They don't fit over regular glasses, like safety glasses are normally made to do, which I found surprising. You can wear them directly above your glasses, if you just needed them there to hold the light. To change batteries you have to have a tiny screw driver and remove three screws on each light mount. Not sure how long batteries last. The lights are very bright, able to light up an entire room from absolute darkness to light enough to read by.



2. Great for attick work. Uses 2 3-volt button batteries on each side. Great LED output.



3. I purchased these for work and they are comfortable and bright. My only complaint is that they don't light up straight ahead of you, just to each side of what you are looking at. So you kind of have to turn your head a little to the side to get the light you need. Not a big deal though. They are great for the price



4. These goggles did what I wanted them to do, demonstrate the software that Johnny Lee showed with a Nintendo Wii Wiimonte.

3 comments about DeWalt DW1587 6 Bit 3/8-Inch to 1-Inch Spade Drill Bit Assortment.

1. I have been using cheep paddle drills for too long. The better ones by dewalt are worth it.



2. The spade bits in this set are the best I have ever used! They preform flawlessly just make sure you have a strong enough drill to turn the 3/4 and 1 inch sizes. Super Bits!!!!!!



3. Strong and durable. Slices through wood with ease! Wish the spades came in a hard plastic box like other dewalt bits. Good enough though.

1 comments about Kreg KMS7724 12 Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape (Left-Right Reading).

1. Very strong and readable tape measure. My original intention was to adhere it to my assembly table, but it's too thick, about 1/16", and would be snagged when sliding project on the table.
   
   Ended up using it inside a t-track on my cross-cut sled, similar to what's shown in the product picture. It made the sled much more usable. Will order a couple more for other uses around the shop.

1 comments about Milwaukee 48-40-4515 8-Inch 42 Tooth Ferrous and Non-Ferrous Metal Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor.

1. I bought this blade wondering if it would cut as I have heard it would. Not wanting to spend a lot for the whole saw I went for only the blade. Well I put it on my table saw and it cut very clean and with very few sparks. Now I did feed it at about 1/6th the speed of a piece of wood while cutting 3/16 inch thick steel. All I can say is it cut great, Very clean,cool to the touch in about 20 seconds or so. Was not sure if it would be to hot to touch so I waited the few sconds. Just use a face shield to protect your eyes from the very small slivers of metal.I never thought metal could be cut this clean and easy and almost spark free.

5 comments about Stiletto TB15MC TiBone 15-Ounce Titanium Milled-Face Hammer.

1. I have used Stiletto hammers for years, and always loved them, I had a hard time justifying the price for the Ti-bone, but after a month of driving (and pulling) 16's I have to say this is the finest tool I have ever owned. It has all the advantaged of an old school Estwing (nearly indistructable) but none of the disadvantages (hard as hell on your elbow and heavy)It drives sinkers in 2 swats easily and it is easier to control than almost any hammer I ever tried. The magnetic nail starter will make placing those hard to reach nails a breeze. The steel faces are replaceable, a nice feature.
   
   All in all an expensive (but well worth it) and wonderfully crafted tool for the professional framer. You will never need another hammer again.



2. this is a cool looking hammer, and i own it. but i use a estwing and i'll tell ya, i like the estwing way better.the nail puller is fine, but, i am not a little woosie that needs a patented nail puller because it hurts my skinny little wrists. i don't like the fact that i have to keep checking the changable face to make sure it's on tight. because if you need to replace it, that's 35 bucks plus shipping. thats more than my estwing costs for the whole hammer. i know i don't have money to burn,do you?



3. I find that Stiletto is a lot of hype. As for the whole driving force, is a bunch of BS! I literally have to swing this hammer faster and harder than my tradition 25 oz hickory handle. The fact is if you have elbow pain you are either A: using the wrong weight or B: not utilizing pneumatic nailers. Most of the time its "A" cause of tough guy egos. "I can pound a 16d in one swing with my 30 oz framer." Yeah, after work you rub your elbow and complain of pain. You should be spending the $250 on a nail gun or new style palm nailer. Work smarter, not harder. I am giving this an extra star for the magnetic nail set and face change features. Otherwise, I would give the stiletto 2 stars.



4. I've had this hammer for four years and like some of the others my head screw came loose all the time. I added a couple drops of Lock-Tite and never had the problem again. I had elbow problems for some time and wanted to go to a lighter hammer. I had always used wood handled hammers which eventually always broke and wanted the durability of metal. This had me worried for my elbow but my solution was to wrap the handle with tennis racket tape which absorbs each blow and also protects the handle as a bonus. What I have now is a healthy elbow and increased hammer speed. I love framing with this hammer and it is worth every penny.



5. First of all, this hammer is not 15oz like people might think. The head weighs 15oz, but not the hammer as a whole. The total weight of the hammer is 31oz, which is 7oz heavier than the 14oz Stiletto hammer with the hickory handle. There is no question about how well this hammer drives nails. It's great, but it is not lightweight like the misleading 15oz tag would suggest. Overall, the hammer feels great and I like the fact that the face can be changed out. The downside is the cost, which will run you a couple of bills. It is worth checking out, but don't expect it to be any lighter than the hammer you may already own.

No comments about DEWALT DC9000 36V Lithium-Ion 1 Hour Charger.