No comments about Chess Explained: The Nimzo-Indian (Chess Explained).

3 comments about Tiger's Modern.

1. The Book is 2Good, Maybe 3good!! I almost did not write a review out of pure Selfishness.. "Mine mine, all mine mine," to Quote a Famous Duck. Get IT, NuffSaid.



2. What an interesting opening book. Tiger Hillarp Persson has really put together a treasure trove of games and analysis of the modern. Many of the games are his own and he is not afraid to include his losses and his flawed gems.
   
   First of all, beware. This is not a book which provides complete coverage of the modern. In that respect, it is more like a repertoire book.
   
   From a strict point of view, it is quite likely that some of the analysis in this book is also flawed. The games are full of queen sacrifices and piece sacrifices and they are not to everyone's taste. But then if you want a safe opening, don't play the modern...play the caro-kann instead.
   
   The modern really defies analysis and opening books struggle to deal with its great flexibility. That is why you will find very little theory on the modern. There are so many possibilities for transpositions. The opening is not for everyone. If you are an attacking player who likes open positions, then this opening is not for you. The modern is a slippery opening that avoids contact between the forces in the first few moves. Any opening up of the position has to be carefully weighed, particularly by the player of the black pieces who usually suffers from less space. That said, the modern is like a coiled spring and in the hands of a practititioner who knows what he is doing, weaker players who play the white pieces may suffer rapid self destruction at the hands of this opening.
   
   The book is nicely presented and I have found no typographical errors (yet), which is always a good sign. The glossy front cover is attractive and the diagrams clear. The games are really worth close analysis. Don't read this book with the aim of memorizing some opening variations. The modern is not like that.
   But working through the various ideas and transpositions should be beneficial.
   
   The only reason I gave this book 4 stars instead of 5 is due to the coverage of the Averbakh variation of the modern. I really felt that this section was there to provide complete coverage. I am not sure that the author's heart and soul are written into this section to the same extent as they are in the e4 variation sections. Playing 4...e5 against the Averbakh may not be be everyone's taste and those who like the middle game conflicts of the 1. e4 modern may not like the endgame that results from the variation 4 ... e5 5. dxe dxe 6. Qxd8+ Kxd8 7. f4.
   
   All in all, this is undoubtedly the most interesting of all the books I own on the modern.



3. I am a 1600 to 1700 ranked correspondence (web based) chess player who opens with c4 and D4 with white. Developing a reply to black's e4 has been a bit of a challenge for me. I have tried the sicilian, but there is so much theory to learn, both on your chosen variety, and the anti-sicilians.
   
   The modern is a terrific alternative. Statistically it achieves results almost as good as the sicilian, but more importantly for me, most e4 players at my level don't spend time learning it (unlike the sicilian, which is played as much as 50% of the time against e4). Another thought I had when considering the modern was that unlike D4 players, most e4 players haven't spent as much time learning to defeat a fianchettoed kings bishop (D4 players have to due to the popularity of the kings indian).
   
   I purchased Tiger's book as a backup to my sicilian - another option to try. Well, I have now been converted, and use Tigers modern as my main weapon. This is a beautiful book, which really highlights in the introduction to each chapter the key plans for black and white. I have been amazed how often white players fall for simple traps (like advancing the b pawn to challenge knight on c3, allowing capture of e4 pawn), mainly because white is just not familiar with the idea.
   
   I love the chapter on the Hippopotamus, which can be used as an alternative with some of Tiger's lines. Tiger is a fun author to read, his use of a quote by Talking Heads in this chapter (nothing happens in heaven) is for me almost worth the price of the book!
   
   The chapter on c4 is probably not the strongest, but in fairness, it is not that common for an e4 player to play c4 in the first few moves, as this is a D4 opening (c4 can also often be prevented by Nf6 if not played quickly). I don't currently have the confidence to try the modern against a D4 or C4 opening due to this, but this isn't an issue for me. Tiger is very honest about this chapter, and for me, it is enough for the odd situation when C4 does arise soon after e4. The ideas are still very well presented, and accordingly, quick to learn.
   
   This book and the modern may not suit everyone (this isn't orthodox chess), but it has been a godsend for me, resulting in a lot of fun trying to "blow up" white's centre.

5 comments about How to Build Your Chess Opening Repertoire.

1. One shouldn't be confused when buying this book without the luxury of browsing it. This isn't a book recommending a certain opening as such. It's geared more toward someone who doesn't have a opening repertoire, jumps from opening to opening, or have faced roadblocks in deciding what opening to play.

   Steve Giddens introduces these possible familiar themes in the books introduction:

   - Most of us blame the opening for our defeat, unjustifiably
   - We never say, "If only I knew endgames better" or "If I could play fixed-pawn games better."
   - We resign to saying, "It's that opening, I always lose with it. I'll have to give it up."
   - Players under master strength spend a disproportionate time on studying openings.
   - We gain very little from this time wasted, due to constant switching around of openings, rote memorization w/o understanding, trusting authority rather than our own ideas, etc.
   - Too few players understand HOW to learn an opening and develop a repertoire.
   - Due to spending too much time on the opening, we seriously neglect the other areas.
   - When we lose, we usually blame the openings, oblivious to the fact that we lost because of our endgame, etc., then spend yet MORE time on another opening
   - This book will help you develop an opening repertoire. It won't guarantee wins, but will set you down the correct path, and help you see the true reason for losses, which is rarely the opening.

   The book then covers the following:

   How building a repertoire allows a player to become very familiar in certain positions, but can result in a limited view on the game, being only proficient with certain pawn structures, etc. An prime example being Fischer, who played the Najdorf and KID almost exclusively. But how today, with the incredible ease of accessing games through computer databases, that masters can 'bookup' against players with fixed systems. This can happen at your local clubs, as well.

   How growing pains exist in learning a new opening, and how it can take months or years to get comfortable with it. Example games are given when grandmasters have deviated from their familiar starting grounds only to show their lack of experience with their new opening show through in the middlegame (ie - Ulhmann, a French Defense player, starting out with the Caro-Kahn...Karpov, starting with a Sicilian Defense, etc.)

   How a player shouldn't be concerned with memorizing the latest theory on move 13 of the QGD. A game of Nigel Short's (playing White) introduces a novelty in an opening where previous White tries resulted in difficulties. Nigel plays a move after assessing the position and following his plan. "I have a terrible memory," he explained, assuring the reader even more how great moves are made by understanding the position, and not through memorization or playing what's in vogue.

   Whether to play 'Main line' or 'Side variations'. Whether to play offbeat opening or classical ones. Also, a chapter covering reverse openings (ie - King's Indian Attack, etc.), with a move in hand are discussed. He discusses the misconception of these openings - "If the King's Indian is good with Black, it must be fantastic with White." Yet, he give much explanation that these openings tend to lack the 'oomph', and that the extra move in hand, surprisingly, tends to be a disadvantage.

   How a player should have his game assessed to determine his style and what openings he should consider playing.

   When studying an opening, to beware of transpositions into lines you may be unprepared for (ie - Having mastered the Queen's Gambit, Exchanged variation and Queen's Indian, your opponent tricks you with 1. d4 e6 2.Nf3 Nf6 3.c4 d5!, and now you're in lines where your prepared Exchange Variation loses it's punch as Nc3 hasn't been played.

   The book at the end covers a dozen or so players and their repertoire, and each chapter's main theme is supported by at least a few example games. The book itself is also made of good quality paper and should last for quite a while.

   The book is an interesting read, with quite a few games backing up all of the book's major points. As mentioned, it isn't a book you go over in preparation for a tournament, but acts as more of a guide for those who have become lost in the sea of opening theory and need a little wake-up call. This book is not at all a must-have book, and if you're under expert, you shouldn't be concerned so much with booking up as you should be other parts of the game, as it's returns are diminished. But for those who have become addicted to opening theory (you know who you are), or if you're a strong player who has yet to developed a proper repertoire and isn't sure where to start, this book may be a decent guide.




2. My first reading of this book made on me a good impression. The author illustrates his points with a few examples and much more text than chess moves.
   
   Giddins chapter on transpositions is a delight; it shows a few example of how world class players handle the opening to achieve the positions they want to play as well as how to avoid being "move ordered".
   
   Also the chapter on computer use in chess has an interesting example of a accidental discovery of a strong continuation in a variation of the Petroff Defense that led Anand to win a convinging game against Kramnik.
   
   His views on how to build/change one's repertoire surely will help the reader. I recommend it for those that are more serious about the game, from club players to those aiming at FIDE title norms.



3. Very good for beginner through intermediate players. Theory and practical application is presented in interesting and easy to understand manner. Highly recommended.



4. This is the single most useful opening book I have read. It's really a "meta-opening book" - advising the reader on how to approach opening study, rather than teaching any single variation.
   
   Giddings' advice, in a nutshell, is to pick just a few compatible openings, e.g. IQP systems for White and Black, and thoroughly learn the opening variations, typical middlegame ideas, and resulting endings. He backs up his opinions with plenty of examples, and the result is a pleasure to read.
   
   I wish I'd had this when I first became serious about tournament chess! (USCF 2010.)



5. this is an excellent book to be read before planning to build a serious opening repertoire , it will save you lot of time and efforts and normal pittfalls .....he is not suggesting any opening to use but teaches you what should you consider when planning your repertoire .....an advice dont start buying openings books before reading this book , its a great help....it answered all the questions and more that passes by any serious intermediate player in studying opening theory, in fact i didnt find any book that delivers even the same topics under one ambrella.

No comments about The Benko Gambit.

5 comments about Secrets of the Russian Chess Masters: Fundamentals of the Game, Volume 1.

1. I am a very visual learner. Apparently, so are Russian children. This book is written in the manner that Russian children are taught: a chessboard is laid down, pieces placed, and a question posed, say, checkmate in two. Your job is to figure out how to get there. In the book, the first half is composed of pages of such diagrams, each geared towards either explaining visually how a piece moves, its value in trade, its best positions, etc. It is a great way to learn the game.
   The book starts off slowly, explaining how the game works. You then work through various parts of the game: openings, middle moves, and closings. This game really helped me to develop a solid opening.
   I have always had trouble with the middle game; this book gives the basics for that. The second volume gives a much more in-depth treatment of the game; openings, closings, and middle game strategy. But this is the book to get for a new player, or for one who always seems to get beaten. I started out losing to the computer on its easiest level, now I still lose, but at least I understand why, heh heh. Seriously, it is written in an understandable manner, and if you're a visual learner, the problem sets are really worthwhile.
   I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.



2. This is one excellent Beginner book; it is unique and very informative. The first 102 pages have a lot of basic fundamental information ALL beginners should learn. Pages 103 to 264 of the book are devoted to Tactics & Strategy theory of The Opening, Middlegame and Endgame-this is the meat of the book. Lev mixes games, theory and teaching diagrams artfully. The diagrams are clear; most ask you a question or two with the answers right there, no flipping pages to the back of the book to hunt for answers. Many answers are very detailed. This is a great study book for beginners. Reading it once is not enough. Good Luck.



3. This is an excellent book for beginners that does more than just teach the basics. It teaches skills needed for any level of play.



4. This book begins with the very basics, how the board is set up, how the pieces move, the basic rules. The book then progresses at a steady pace introducing strategy and tactical tools. The book goes further than just explaining principles, and offers "chessercizes" at the end of each section to ensure the reader fully grasps each concept before moving on. I have read several chess books and browsed many more and this is hands down the best one. If you play chess or want to learn, you must read this book.



5. I have bought many books here but have never submitted a review. For this book I have to say its one of my best buy. 5 stars!!

5 comments about Fundamental Chess Endings.

1. If you are looking for the definitive one-volume endgame manual, this is the book, make no mistake. FCE is sensational. Somehow the authors have achieved the almost super-human feat of writing a monumental reference work that is at the same time instructive and readable. As well as explaining the techniques and principles of thousands of endgames, the authors have even gone to the trouble of inserting numberous tests and puzzles. It is obvious they really care about the reader assimilating the material.
   As the project was meticulously checked by computer program, and the typesetter was John Nunn, it is safe to say the quality of analysis and assessments is as close to perfection as is possible. The book belongs in the library of anyone who takes chess seriously.



2. Chess Endings are very important, as Lasker, Capablanca and modern chess teachers say.
   At my small local club, we are all at class C and sub-class B. They are very good tactical players, and prefer to play the middle-games where there are still many pieces left. Player A is the best tactician there, has been the number one for three straight years. (My tactics are not as good as most of theirs. Luckily, I learn a few tips from Chernev's writing.)
   a) One day (I witnessed), player A obtained a position in Rook Ending, and each side had a Rook. He got four Pawns on the K-side, his opponent (player B) had 2 on the Q-side; the Kings were on the rear of their own Pawns. So far so good. Player B had his K on second rank, while player A had his K on the back-rank! Player A kept giving useless checks and ignored advancing his un-opposed Pawns. Player B cleverly advanced his K and Pawns at every opportunity. To our horror, player B got his Pawn and R to the seventh and his K was right behind them. And we know the rest of the story.
   b) Weeks later same player A won a Knight for a Pawn from me in the opening. After that, he just moves aimlessly with the goal to win on the clock, while I used my active Rook to win another Pawn. Only then he tried to trade off our last Rooks, which I quickly calculated and complied. Besides his centralized Knight, he had one Pawn on c-file; I had 3 Ps on h-, c- and b-files (all of mine had reached mid-field). His K was on his own third, while mine was at fourth rank. I saw that I could at least have a draw. Because his K was unable to defend both sides simultaneously, I could force him to trade off his last P. To my surprise, he let my b-Pawn become connected passed pawn. And after my K entered his K-side, the game was over. He had to let go his Knight for my h-pawn.
   c) Another time I visited a cross-town chess club. In a tournament, an expert playing white had Bishop and 2 Pawns versus his sub-1700 opponent who had lone R. All white pieces had reached or passed mid-field with his Pawns on g5 and h6. It was about the adjournment time. The tournament director, also a chess master, came by to observe the game during the black piece player considered his sealed move. I waited for the master to study the position for 20-30 seconds, and then I pulled him aside and whispered to him that the game was a draw. He said, "No, white is winning." I then answered that all black had to do was to give check to white K via the back-rank and trade his R for white g-Pawn (white could not block the check by his B!); white was left with the wrong colored B! That was the first and only time I could show-off my "computing prowess" to a master, ;-). The story didn't end here. While the sub-1700 player was working out his sealed move, the expert said, "It doesn't take much longer, let's play a few more moves." I think, the expert felt regrettable for saying that so he immediately corrected, "Let's get together over the weekend and finish our game." Now isn't it something? I just learned a lesson on how a chess player should treat an inferior opponent!
   
   Three examples above show that endgame experience can be really important and fun. Now let us go back to the book FCE. This book is masterwork. The cover is beautifully designed. The book is reasonable size and light. It is larger than The Amateur's Mind both in size and content, but is more comfortable to handle. The content table in front and the table of database on the back provide two quick ways to search for the positions of interest. The analysis is professionally deep. The explanation of each chapter and section is very clear and easy to follow. The font, the diagrams, and layout are very handsome. This book doesn't have as much examples as Fine's BCE, but the critical positions are all here, and the analysis is much deeper and more accurate. Almost all the positions are from actual games so they are very realistic. For correspondent games, I often search this book for the endgames like Q + Ps, R + Ps, Minor Piece endings. Before I have FCE, I used BCE mainly, but BCE doesn't have enough diagrams and is dated. It may take me at least 5 complete years to study this book; and Fine, at least 10 years. This book is classic (I hope the paper and spine will last long for at least 20 years), I don't mind to have an extra copy to write the experimental notes.



3. Many of the other reviews have argued that Karsten and Muller have created a single-volume endgame book that has all the key points of the endgame.
   
   This may be so, but I have tried to sit down and use it for study only to be disappointed. The material is fairly well organized, but it is too dense to work with. This is the sort of endgame book that gives endgame books a bad name. It is full of information but is dry as dust.
   
   I recommend Dvoretsky's "Endgame Manual" instead for almost all players. That book uses two colors of font to highlight important positions. "Fundamental Chess Endings uses almost the same style as "Basic Chess Endings" (written by Reuben Fine 19 1941) and feels as dusty.
   
   If you have the money and desire, get both books. But you will probably use Dvoretsky's book more.



4. This is one-volume encyclopaedia covering all endgame techniques. An advanced chess book for players rated over 2000. I would not recommend this endgame book for players rated below 2000. The problem for those players is that it is not easy to find the endgame elements and techniques a player rated below 2000 should focus on and exclude the rest. I miss a clearer index of the instructive examples (this is almost given as a footnote on the last page). It is not easy to lookup different standard position and techniques in this book. Examples are Triangulation, Vancura position, etc. Even the simple technique - opposition, has no chapter name, so have to go to the chapter "2.1 King + Pawn (s) vs King" to find it. But of course, this is an award winning book, so if you want an advanced "all-in-one" endgame book, this is the book for you.



5. Do you really want to learn the very core of chess endgames? Then just buy this book (and read it)!

5 comments about Simple Chess: New Algebraic Edition.

1. I agree with all the positive observations made by the other reviewers, but would like to extend the list of typos started by Dr. Salawu. Here are the errors I've found, with page numbers as they appear in the 2002 Dover algebraic edition:
   
   p.15, variation following move 22: "(23...Kb3" should be "(23...Kc6"
   p.33, 6th para: "conceding the d4 square" should be "conceding the d5 square"
   p.47, 2nd para: the omitted 21st Black move in the variation is Ne5
   p.52: "7. Bxc3" should be "7. bxc3"
   p.96, variation following move 31: the move after 32. Nxf4 should be Rc1+
   p.102, 1st para: "Bb7" should be "Bg7"
   p.129, 1st para: "all kings" should be "all kinds"
   p.129, last para: Black's 12th move in the second variation should be Rh5, not Rh4
   p.158: Black's 4th move was Bb7, not Bg7
   p.160, 1st line: "28. Bc5!" should be "28. Bc5+!"



2. I received this book in the mail and thought "another chess book for temporary amusement" -- then, to the shelf it would go to collect dust for years. I'm happy to say I was WAY wrong on that line of thinking!!
   
   This is the most absorbing chess book I have ever read!
   
   That said, it is not for beginners (stated many times before by others), and it is not for players who only enjoy tactics and suicidal attacks. This is the essence of positional chess in one book-- captured and explained in a very impressive manner by Stean.
   
   My opinion is subjective -- I love positonal play and believe that's the reason to play the game! But I've already learned so many things (outposts, minority attack, etc.); my eyes have been opened to these "secrets" like never before. I feel like I have at least a small understanding of what GM's are looking for in their games, from a positional standpoint.
   
   Also, I like the fact that the games are more recent than My System (which is very good)-- you get to see the Siclian and King's Indian and others, not just the Ruy Lopez and QGD of the early 1900's.
   
   It's hard to put into words why this book is so choice, but I wish it was 500 pages-- I could live as a recluse with this book and a board!
   
   To all my future opponents-- please ignore this book and stick with tactics and your kamikaze style play-- that might make our future battles so much easier for me!
   
   Thank you Michael Stean-- a fantasic effort on your part!! Too bad it took me this long to discover it.



3. Simply the best! Important elements of Chess Strategy explained lucidly. A truly great book that introduces chess strategy to the masses. A must have book for the intermediate player.



4. If you see this in a bookstore look at his analysis of the first game in the introduction (Botvinnik-Szilagyi). If that doesn't sell you then nothing will.
   
   This is the most instructive chess book I own (sadly, I own many). I have all the "standards" - Silman, Chernev etc - but this is simply the best. And the acid test is that it improved my results. I won't dwell on its quality, because other reviewers have covered that. I will say that you will never look at the board the same way again after reading it.
   
   The book does assume some previous reading on positional concepts, but it doesn't assume any competence (trust me). Everyone's read some inappropriate positional tome early in their career, so this shouldn't be a problem for most people.
   
   Another reviewer has said something to the effect that every sentence has some instructive value, and I couldn't agree more. When I first read it I glossed over some things as I was caught up in the prose and the "main point", but on subsequent readings I realized that there is a whole second layer - a kind of indirect, subconscious instruction - in the writing when he sets context or alludes to alternatives. Take a relaxed read first up, by all means, but I urge you to give it a real serious word by word analysis subsequently. The prose is very deliberate. There are no throw away lines. It is a gold mine.
   
   I remember reading that a publishing house was trying to do a new edition of the original (descriptive notation) edition in the late 90s but that Stean was uninterested. I am so glad he changed his mind. It is a pity that such a talent has remained silent for so long. I wish he would write again. Anything.
   
   Study tactics, and read this. Maybe chess is simple after all.



5. A small book ( only 160 pages ) but what a book !!! I can see why all the reviews have been either 4- or 5-stars. It is particularly suited for the intermediate players who want to tighten their game by a few notches. There aren't many books that can cut to the chase quickly and reveal the kernel of chessic wisdom - Simple Chess does. If one has vague ideas of some chess concepts, by the end of the book, they will not remain vague. But to be even handed, one definitely must have some idea of chess concepts ( however vague !) PRIOR to reading this book.

3 comments about Starting Out: Sicilian Najdorf (Starting Out - Everyman Chess).

1. Richard Palliser is to be congratulated on this excellent introductory book on the Najdorf variation of the Sicilian Defense, one of the more popular chess openings. It starts as follows: 1 e4 c5 2 Nf3 d6 3 d4 cxd4 4 Nxd4 Nf6 5 Nc3 a6.
   
   Many chess champions have played the Najdorf for Black. Does that mean that you ought to do so as well? Many people would say yes. I wouldn't. The reason that these great champions play it is that they want to win with Black against strong masters or even grandmasters. But suppose you are playing someone who is noticeably weaker than you? You may well have simply evened the odds against someone you would normally beat, even with Black.
   
   I feel that the problem is that White will play an aggressive system, where one Black error means curtains. Not just a good position that White could have or should have won, but a position that Black has to resign. White can be rated much lower than Black and still be very well booked on a dangerous attack. Black will need to defend carefully. If Black forgets the proper defense, that's not good at all. Worse, it's probably going to be White, not Black, who comes up with a TN (theoretical novelty). White simply has too many options for this not to be the case. And White can spend a while doing home analysis before the game with the aid of a computer. Yes, White is more likely to come up with a surprise than Black. And not knowing White's line, Black is going to have trouble saving the game.
   
   The book begins with a chapter on 6 Be2 for White. This has been a favorite of a World Champion, Anatoly Karpov. Karpov has had a tendency to slowly outplay most of his opponents, and 6 Be2 is a fine move for him. I do not recommend it for the rest of us. Next, we get to the most popular line, 6 Be3. That is a good line, but I don't recommend it for White either. For one thing, I feel rather strongly that putting that Bishop on e3 is generally a strategic error in the Sicilian. It always seems to get hit with moves such as Ng4 by Black at the most inconvenient times. By the way, 6...Ng4 is a pretty good answer to 6 Be3, as the author spends over 30 pages pointing out.
   
   The next White idea is 6 Bc4, Bobby Fischer's favorite line. It's not bad, although it is not my favorite move. The author also discusses a couple of minor lines, such as 6 f4 and 6 g3. But they aren't major threats to Black's setup.
   
   No, the move that I think puts Black in the gravest danger of losing rating points to a supposedly vastly inferior player is 6 Bg5. That is what I recommend, and Palliser spends enough time on this move to get his readers acquainted with the main ideas.
   
   The main line that I think makes the most sense for White is 6 Bg5 e6 7 f4 Be7 8 Qf3 Qc7 9 O-O-O Nbd7 10 Bd3 b5 11 Rhe1 Bb7 12 Qg3 b4 13 Nd5 exd5 14 exd5 Kd8 15 Nc6+. Not only is Black likely to get in trouble in this line, there are all sorts of alternative lines for White along the way. Palliser shows us a good game in this variation.
   
   As the author explains, a complicated alternative line for Black is 6 Bg5 e6 7 f4 Qb6, the infamous "Poisoned Pawn" variation. Palliser shows us a little about the continuation 8 Qd2 Qxb2 9 Rb1 (as the author says, 9 Nb3 is also a good try) 9...Qa3 in this book. He recommends 10 f5 here, which is a good line, although I happen to prefer 10 Be2 Be7 11 e5. Another popular choice for Black is 6 Bg5 e6 7 f4 b5, the Polugaevsky variation. That's risky. The author shows us how Peter Leko plays against this with White, and I recommend looking at his lines here.
   
   In my very first tournament chess game against a Master, I played White against the Najdorf. I think my game shows some of the resources for both sides in this interesting defence:
   
   1 e4 c5 2 Nf3 e6 (My opponent was well aware that the White side of the Najdorf was my specialty, and that playing 2...d6 3 d4 cxd4 4 Nxd4 Nf6 5 Nc3 a6 here would simply be asking for trouble.) 3 d4 cxd4 4 Nxd4 Nf6 5 Nc3 d6 6 Bc4 (Black has avoided my favorite line against the Najdorf and can now play a6 with confidence.) 6...a6 7 Qe2 b5 8 Bb3 Be7 (As Palliser explains, this aggressive system for White simply gives Black a good game. Now 9 Be3 is recommended for White, but as I explained earlier, I had no intention of playing that move.) 9 Rg1 (My opponent did not even seem surprised.) 9...O-O 10 g4 b4 11 g5 bxc3 12 gxf6 (This gives Black a chance to lose at once, as 12...Qa5? 13 Rxg7+ wins for White.) 12...Bxf6 13 bxc3 Qc7 14 Qf3 Kh8 15 Bh6 (Realizing that I had been outplayed, I was hoping that Black would try to defend with 15...Rg8, as I was planning 16 Qxf6! gxf6 17 Rxg8+ Kxg8 18 Kd2, with a draw. Unfortunately, I had overlooked 15...Be5, which gives Black an excellent game as 16 Rg5 gets splattered by 16...Nd7. Against 15...Be5, I would have had to try 16 Bg5, but Black would probably have won after that. Anyway, instead of any of this, something ridiculous happened.) 15...Nd7?? 16 Qxf6 Qxc3+ 17 Ke2 gxf6 18 Bg7+ Black Resigns.
   
   I highly recommend this book.



2. I was disappointed in this book. It was confusing in that the author tries to juggle too many lines of analysis at the same time. The lines that I could follow were helpful, but it read like a book whose pages had gotten mixed up and they couldn't remember what order to put them back in. Especially for a beginning player, this book will be confusing. It follows only one variation (Karpov's Be2 line for white) of the Najdorf. I was mislead by the content description to think that most variations would be covered to some extent. It was hard to finish.



3. I'm not sure if the previous reviewer actually read the book. It covers all the main variations, not just the Karpov Approach. For example: 71 pages on the English Attack(both e5 and Ng4), 36 pages on Fisher's 6 Bc4, 51 pages on 6.Bg5 and finally 20 pages on 6.f4 and minor variations.
   
   The Najdorf is extremely complex and sharp as an opening option for black. Don't buy this book if you don't want to devote many, many hours to understanding the ideas of this opening. I will tell you that I have come to a much better understanding of this opening as I read through this book. It is also essential to learn some of the forcing lines in certain variations (e.g. Poisioned Pawn). There are many examples of "only one move" situations....but then when you make those only moves your game is grand.

5 comments about Starting Out: The Caro-Kann (Starting Out - Everyman Chess).

1. The Caro-Kann has been the first defence I studied versus 1.e4. It's a shame I didn't have that book when I studied it because Gallagher explained the ideas of the CK (for both white and black) very well, and I would have saved a lote of tiresome work (and painful defeats!) if I had it at that time!

   This book is especially impressive as Galagher's own experience on the CK is from the white side only. A must buy for a first book on the CK (especially for the black player). Even more experienced players can find many interesting section as "the fantasy variation" (where white playes 3.f3; ) is astounding (here Gallagher's own experience on the white side shines through).




2. The Caro-Kann is a solid defense to 1 e4. It begins with 1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 (yes, those who have second thoughts with Black after seeing the almost inevitable 2 d4 can still change their minds and play 2...d6, switching to a Pirc, but that's another story).
   
   Gallagher leads us through the main lines we need to know to play this defense, as well as to decide what to play against it with White. We begin with the Classical: 1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 3 Nc3 dxe4 4 Nxe4. And I agree with the author that those interested in this ought to buy Tal's book on his 1960 match versus Botvinnik as well. Black has a choice of 4...Bf5, which is fairly solid, or 4...Nd7, which can be a little trickier, or the more dubious 4...Nf6. The Classical lines take up over half the book.
   
   Then we proceed to the Advance Variation (1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 3 e5). Gallagher spends quite a bit of time on 3...c5 here. In this, Black is playing an Advance Variation of the French defense a tempo down. We also see a good analysis of 3...Bf5 4 Nc3, where White hopes to launch a kingside attack that includes g4 as a tempo-gaining shot at that f5 Bishop.
   
   Next is the Panov (1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 3 exd5 cxd5 4 c4). This is my favorite for White. That's because I can use this analysis to play White against the Scandinavian, the Queen's Gambit Declined (if I open 1 d4), and even the Nimzo-Indian (the same isolated queen pawn position can arise in all of these). After 4...Nf6 5 Nc3 e6 6 Nf3 Be7 7 cxd5 Nxd5, we're there (the author now recommends 8 Bd3). Gallagher talks about that isolated White Queen pawn, and how minor piece trades tend to favor Black here by reducing White's attacking chances.
   
   Late in the book, there is a section on the move 2 c4, which I think Gallagher ought to have given a little more discussion. This is an attempt by White to get to a Panov before committing to playing d4. The idea is to make it harder for Black to employ certain defences (such as 5...g6) that might otherwise be used versus the Panov. After 1 e4 c6 2 c4 (I agree with Gallagher that this move looks ugly, leaving that awful hole on d4), I think Black ought to be considering 2...e5, and Gallagher gives a couple of brief ideas here. However, Black is often content to get into a Panov with 2...d5. Next is 3 exd5, to which the author gives 3...cxd5 as the automatic response. But I disagree. I think the automatic response ought to be 3...Nf6!? After that, White will have to humbly crawl back into the Panov with 4 d4, and let Black defend against it any way she wants to. Or else "win" Black's pawn with 4 dxc6 Nxc6, but this is a well-known position from the Scandinavian, and most folks would already prefer Black.
   
   After 1 e4 c6 2 c4 d5 3 exd5 cxd5 4 cxd5 Nf6, I think White is getting what she wants after 5 Nc3, and she even has the option of playing 5 Bb5+ instead.
   
   This book also has three pages on the Exchange Variation (1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 3 exd5 cxd5 4 Bd3). And it has a section on the infamous Fantasy Variation (1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 3 f3). I once fell into a famous trap in this line that Gallagher boasts he won three games in as White. I, and Gallagher's opponents, played the following first nine suicidal moves as Black:
   
   1 e4 c6 2 d4 d5 3 f3 dxe4 4 fxe4 e5 5 Nf3 exd4? 6 Bc4 Bb4+? 7 c3 dxc3 8 Bxf7+ (this wins by force) Kxf7 9 Qxd8 cxb2+ 10 Ke2 bxc1=N+ (as the book shows, 10...bxa1=Q gets Black mated, so I tried something else) 11 Rxc1 (White's advantage is overwhelming but now my opponent demonstrates that with bad enough play, any position can be compromised) 11...Bg4 12 Qc7+ Nd7 13 Qxb7 Rb8 14 Qxa7 Nc7 15 Nc3 Bc5 16 Qc7 Rb2+ 17 Ke1 Rxg2 18 Qf4+ Ke8 19 Rab1 Rf8 20 Rb8+ Nxb8 21 Qxb8+ Bc8 22 Ne5 Bf2+ 23 White Resigns
   
   This book is very readable and clear, and I think it is an excellent introduction to the Caro-Kann. I recommend it.



3. As always, this example of the Starting Out series provides a good first introduction to an important alternative to the ubiquitous sicilian. A reasonably good survey of the main lines and an interesting and well-annotated selection of illustrative games.



4. Joe Gallagher's survey can only serve as a very basic introduction to the Caro-Kann. One must also bear in mind that Gallagher does NOT play the Caro-Kann Defense himself, and this at times shows itself in how he discusses the variations. Still, the book is okay if it is your first introduction to this defense. It is NOT a complete Caro-Kann Defense book -- that book hasn't been written yet... There are four new Caro-Kann books to be published in the coming months that promise us something good:
   
   - Anatoly Karpov: "Karpov's Caro Kann: Advance and Gambit Systems" (February 2007)
   - Anatoly Karpov: "Karpov's Caro Kann: Panov's Attack" (February 2007)
   - Jovanka Houska: "Play the Caro-Kann : A Complete Chess Opening Repertoire Against 1e4" (February 2007)
   - Peter Wells: "Chess Explained: The Caro-Kann" (November 2006)
   
   For me, a good openings book should contain the following:
   1) Historical background and major practitioners
   2) General discussion of pawn structures
   3) Variations -- each variation should have
   - Themes and traps for White
   - Themes and traps for Black
   - Move by move analysis of variation
   - Games survey (important historical games as well as those that illustrate strategic/tactical ideas)
   4) Detailed index of variations with page number references
   
   There are many Caro-Kann books that contain some of the above, but none of them do it all. Most of the openings books you will find out there are either a mass of variations with little or no discussion or intro-type books which are too general/superficial to provide a serious chessplayer with the tools he or she needs to compete.
   
   [...]



5. Joe Gallagher's "Starting Out: The Caro-Kann" provides the reader with just enough material about the defense to give it a try in a club setting or tournament game. As an introduction to the opening for low-to-moderately-rated club players, I would recommend it for its simplicity, clarity, and communication of ideas about the Caro-Kann. Most of the significant variations of the opening are covered in an overview kind of way, with a few illustrative games for each variation presented to help the reader get a feel for the ideas and strategies. Gallagher provides some relevant and lively side comments about the games, including his own experiences playing against the different variations. Each variation has a brief introductory paragraph along with some statistics about White's percentage of success in mater-level games against the variation (not terribly relevant to the intended audience) and an approximation of the amount of opening theory a player needs to know to deal with the variation competently. Interspersed throughout the games are highlighted concepts, ideas, and potential dangers in the opening variation. Using games to illustrate not just the opening, but also the transition from opening to middle game and, ultimately, the endgame is an effective format so the reader can see where the opening variation might lead. Upon full digestion of this book, a player would be ready for some more in-depth exploration of the Caro-Kann Defense.

3 comments about Chess Self-Improvement.

1. This book will make you better. Believe me! Buying this book will do for your chess what buying a set of weights will do for your figure. All you have to do (in both cases) is put in the effort, and I mean serious effort. This guy has gone to an enormous amount of trouble to make it easy for you to improve. This is a workout at the gym, with the best equipment, a personal trainer, no queues for the machines, and your favourite music playing. It's going to leave you breathless and quivering with exhaustion, dripping with sweat, but with rapidly strengthening muscles and no more weight problems. There are 50 games, which Franco has analysed thoroughly. He has then identified important points, every few moves, and presents you with questions. Sometimes, you have to choose between several moves (and justify your choice). Sometimes, it's just 'find the move', and there's no guidance. Often he'll deliberately include a move that is highly dubious, but appealing to a club-player. He's pretty vicious with the scoring! You can lose a lot of hard-earned points for carelessly picking a nice-looking move - but then, doing the same thing in a game could cost you one much more important point. The scoring structure for each game covers everything from duffer to grandmaster, and the point is to make you think. So you try, you think harder and harder in pursuit of those elusive points, and boy does it do you good! OK, it's very easy to blunder points away and end up in duffer category, but so so satisfying when you get the plan of the game correct and finish up with a master score. I'm not sure who would get grandmaster points, as sometimes even the actual moves, the ones the grandmasters played, are the very ones that lose you points! It's like being at the gym with about five weights on the machine, and there's about 30 weights altogether - you wonder just who on earth could possibly move all those weights... Unless you're into chess-boxing, it's probably never going to be you or me, but we can try for more of Franco's points!
   
   In short, this is an outstanding book to stretch your abilities and asess your chess strength.



2. This is the greatest training book that I have seen, ever! It cannot simply be read, it must be studied. I suggest using the chess set you use in tournaments, a score sheet for you answers and some blank paper to cover the sections you have not gotten to yet.
   
   I want to be very clear that I do not believe that this book should be used by beginners. If you have not progressed beyond the 1500 level it may be more frustration than it is worth.
   
   Now, if you are an average to somewhat strong player, 1600 - 2000, and you are serious about competing then this book will be of great value to you. I have tried for the past year to use the solitaire chess method to study various books and it simply did not work because other books were not designed to be studied in this way. This book, however, stops you and asks you to choose from among various moves or simply what your next move might be, and grades you accordingly. This makes the possibility of accidentally seeing the next move much less likely. Another key feature is that Franco also asks questions concerning moves that were not in the main line. If Black played 18... Bxd4 but another possible move was 18... c5 Franco might ask what you would have played against that move. And if you are training leave the board as it is and imagine how it would look after the move in question and examine the possible variations without moving the pieces, just like you would have to do in a real game.
   
   I also recommend preparing for each lesson by studying one or two games from the opening played in the game you are about to study. For instance, before I studied the first lesson I looked at the ECO code of the game and then found the game Lasker - Steinitz in the same variation in Kasparov's My Great Predecessors Vol I. The lesson was certainly more enjoyable because I felt confident that I new some of the ideas behind the opening, even though the games progressed in totally different manners.
   
   Since I first wrote this review I have come across two other important techniques that can be incorporated into a study regimen with this book. This first is using ChessBase or another program to create easily reviewable flash cards of key positions that you mishandled or that struck you as a new strategic or tactical idea which you had never seen before. The second idea being to actually analyze your play as you would if it were your own OTB game in a tournament, looking at why your errors were wrong and why the correct move was better.
   
   This book is designed to make training seriously and intensely very easy for you. It has an excellent table of contents and index of games and openings. It is a must for any serious student.



3. This is a very difficult book. It is probably too hard for C players and perhaps B players. My main gripe is that moves selected or predicted by the reader which turn out to be the same moves played by the GM during the game often get 0 credit because they aren't the absolute best move (usually the best moves are determined years later by further GM analysis or Fritz). Selecting the move played by the GM deserves some credit unless it's an absolute blunder (which is highly unlikely). The production values of the book are excellent and the teaching value is exemplary. A secondary gripe is the scoring system. What, for example, does "good level" or "not bad at all" mean? It would have been preferable to use a scoring system similar to Khmelinitsky's (Chess Exam) where he uses USCF categories and percentages. That, of course, would have reqired some actual norming.