1 comments about Umbria: Regional Recipes from the Heartland of Italy.

1. Having just returned from eating our way through Umbria and Tuscany this book was like reliving everything we'd experienced. The recipes were simple, fresh and filling. the photography and text captured the essence of Umbria completely. A joy of a cookbook for those who enjoy cooking with fresh, healthy ingredients.

No comments about Quick & Easy Soups.

No comments about Futurist Cookbook.

1 comments about The Italian Collection (The Best of Food & Wine).

1. I love this book. As an Italian , I must save these dishes are excellent tasting, like mom used to make. Some are twists on orignals. All the recipies i have made, came out excellent. My dad bought another copy of the book for himself because it was so good! try the shrimp risotti and the meditarian eggplant dishes! you will love these!

1 comments about Italian Wines 2004: A Guide to the World of Italian Wine for Experts and Wine Lovers (Italian Wines).

1. The 2004 edition of the Gambero Rosso marks my fourth Amazon review of this publication. I now own all the editions back to 1999, so I have a "vertical" of Gambero Rosso Guides measuring an impressive 9" across my shelf of wine books. The 1999 edition carried reviews of wines dating back to '93 Brunellos and Amarones, and 2004 has a few 2002's, so my collection covers nearly a decade of Italian wine. Actually, since it's the practice of the Gambero Rosso to list high scoring ratings from some previous years, I have coverage dating back to the mid-eighties in areas like the
   Piedmont, Tuscany, and the Veneto.

   Accordingly, it seemed like a good time to reflect back on the changes across the years as a way of explaining the current Gambero Rosso product and what it can do for you. It's also instructive to comment on what hasn't changed, because this reveals both the strengths and weaknesses of the publication. The 1999 edition had 648 pages, rated 1536 producers and 10120 wines, and awarded 154 "3 glass" winners (this is the Gambero's quirky way of acknowledging the best wines made each year in Italy). The 2004 edition boasts 864 pages, rates 1937 producers and 14208 wines, and awards 254 winners their highest honor. So, if you want to think about it this way, you're getting somewhere between 25-60% more value out of this book today than you did 6 years ago. Of course, the growth in good wines reflects the underlying explosion in quality across Italy over the last 10 years, and that's what Gambero is all about: annually charting the arc of individual producers and wines in more depth than any other publication in the world. If you love Italian wine or just want some recommendations on what to try, you can basically ignore Parker, the Spectator, and most other sources you've ever heard of, buy a Gambero and go wild. No one else covers The Boot better (at least not in an English language version) and no one hits the mark more often in assessing quality.

   Each year the book has a brief introduction in which the authors sprinkle their thanks and comment on a trend or two. In 1999 they were happy because some producers had begun using synthetic corks to overcome the problems of taint. In 2004 they are suddenly aghast at the Parkerization of Italian wine and are all for indigenous varieties and terroir. To put it mildly, this is a little disingenuous if not outright hypocritical, because as long as I've known the book they have been big-time champions of extracted, international-style wines, Super Tuscans, Riccardo Cotarella etc. In many debates and discussions I've had with knowledgeable wine store staff and sommeliers, there has been a persistent strain of criticism regarding the Gambero's politics, ie a perceived favoritism toward high profile modern wines and wines with big marketing muscle when it comes to awarding the esteemed three glass rating. But it has long been the hallmark of the publication that the lesser lights, ie the 0, 1, and 2 glass wines, are not reviewed anywhere else and often represent the true gems of Italy: the indigenous and local varietal wines produced by artisans and small co-ops and unheralded geniuses-to-be, many at very reasonable prices. After all, where else can you turn to find ratings for more than 100 worthy Montepulciano d'Abruzzo's, or a similar number of wines from the Lombardy appellation Oltrepo Pavese?

   Looking back at my previous reviews, there is plenty to criticize. The book isn't terribly timely, and for the third year in a row I can gripe that the current Brunello vintage, this time the well regarded '99's, are once again completely absent. The book's organization hasn't changed a whit in 6 years, so you still can't use it without a tiresome reference to the indexes of wines and producers in the back of the book. Half the time if the wine is called Fattoria this or Tenuta that or another common Italian winery starter, you can't tell how it's listed in the producer index and can waste a lot of time trying to find it. The 2004 edition is roughly the size and weight of a brick, which makes it physically unwieldy and awkward to use. Good luck finding a lot of the wines that are off the beaten path: many may not even make it to the US, although scouring store shelves and the 'net for them is one of my favorite hobbies.

   But like anything else you love, you can't help but find a way to overlook the flaws and concentrate on the good. Here are three things I do with the Gambero. First, I have carefully calibrated their ratings with prices, so I season my buying by comparing the number of glasses earned to the best market price I can find. Second, with more than 14,000 choices at my fingertips, I almost never buy an Italian wine I haven't tried before without checking the Gambero. If you want to call me a wine wimp or a slavish devotee, I don't care, because experience has taught me that my tastes align with the reviews and I trust them more than any other publication's. Third, I have nearly 20 years of ratings to apply against auction prices, and I've gotten some incredible bargains on wines I knew nothing about solely because I checked the Gambero before bidding. Most recently, I practically stole a 1998 Fontanabianca Barbaresco "Sori Burdin" that was as beautiful and expressive as anything I've had all year (yes, it was a three glass winner in the 2002 guide).

   Buy this book not because it will teach you about the history of Italian wine or how to read an Italian wine label or what food it goes with (it won't do any of this stuff). Buy it to experience the best wines Italy has to offer by drinking them.

No comments about 100 Great Pasta Dishes.

No comments about Italian.

No comments about Italiana: Italian, Spanish-Language Edition (Coleccion Williams-Sonoma).

5 comments about Pasta Improvvisata: How to Improvise in Classic Italian Style.

1. Pasta Improvvisata How to Improvise in Classic Italian Style By Erica DeMane

   Reviewed by Liz Waters Copyright 1999 by Liz Waters All Rights Reserved

   Improvisation in the kitchen has become something of a lost art in recent years, and Erica DeMane is doing her part to reverse this trend with Pasta Improvvisata. I would bet that many, many of our favorite Italian dishes were once an improvisation by inventive cooks, and I know for a fact that the more one improvises, the more one realizes what flavors should go together and which should not. It is often experience, and confidence that enables an inventive cook. With DeMane's wonderful book in which she shares her extensive experience with gentle encouragement, even the shakiest cook should grow confident enough to start creating without a set-in-stone recipe!

   Here is a recipe that we have made "as is" and improvised on a few times in our kitchen. The blend of basil, zucchini, pasta and scallops is a delicious one that can be played with in your kitchen too. But, do yourself a favor and try it "by the book" first.

   Basil Lasagne with Scallops and Zucchini

   This is a light lasagne that contains no bechamel or cheese. It's wonderful in the summer, when both young zucchini and fragrant basil are in abundance. A good winter version can be made by substituting the same amounts of Belgian endive for the zucchini and parsley for the basil.

   (Makes 4 main-course or 6 first-course servings)

   1 ½ pounds sea scallops, side muscles removed Salt Freshly ground black pepper Olive oil 2 large white onions, thinly sliced 8 or 9 medium zucchini, sliced in thin rounds 3 or 4 anchovy fillets, chopped 2 or 3 garlic cloves, peeled

   For the Basil Sauce: A large bunch of basil leaves (about 2 packed cups) Salt Freshly ground black pepper Olive oil 1 ½ cups heavy cream 2 large eggs

   1 recipe Three-Egg Herb Pasta flavored with basil (page 368) cut for lasgne About 1 cup bread crumbs, toasted (see page 340).

   If some of the scallops are very thick, cut them in half horizontally; otherwise, leave them whole. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and toss with a few tablespoons of olive oil. Heat a large skillet until it is almost smoking and sear the scallops on both sides (this shold take no more than a minute or so). They should be lightly browned on both sides but slightly underdone in the center. Remove them from the pan and set aside.

   In the same skillet add a few more tablespoons of olive oil and saute the onions over medium heat until they just start to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the zucchini, a bit of the salt and pepper, and saute until lightly browned and tender, about 8 minutes. Add the anchovies and cook 1 minute to blend.

   To make the sauce, place the basil leaves and garlic in a food processor. Season with salt and pepper and add a healthy shot of olive oil. Grind to a rough paste. Add the cream and eggs and process a few seconds, just to blend the ingredients.

   Cook the lasagne sheets in batches until tender Run under cold water, drain, and lay them out on kitchen towels or paper towels.

   Ladle a thin coating of the basil sauce over the bottom of a large baking pan (about 12x10x2 inches). Add a layer of pasta. Top with a layer of zucchini and dot with a layer of scallops. Add a thin coating of basil cream. Add another layer of pasta, another coating of basil sauce, then zucchini, scallops and so on. End with a layer of pasta coated with a layer of basil sauce. Top with a; thin but even coating of toasted bread crumbs.

   Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake the lasagne for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until the sauce is bubbling and the top is lightly browned, about 15 minutes more. Let rest a few minutes before cutting.

   Ideas

   Other vegetables combine well with scallops. I've made a scallop and escarole lasagne that was wonderful. Try sautéing sliced leeks until very soft and using a layer of them instead of zucchini; omit the onion. Spinach, too, goes well with scallops.

   I've made a great lasagne by alternating layers of traditional basil pesto (page 102 in book), a lightly cooked tomato sauce, and seared scallops.

   Another interesting lasagne can be made from scallops grilled with lemon and oregano and layered with sautéed green chard.

   This lasagne is also excellent if you leave out the scallops for an all-vegetable version.

   Watch for our Cooking Club Chat featuring Meg Hildreth interviewing Erica DeMane next month: Details about the date and time will be announced soon.




2. cooking with erica demane's book is a blast. everything i have made has been delicious and new, and with each recipe i see how to use ingredients together that can be used in other ways as well. she makes it easy to learn how to improvise and it makes me feel like a real cook. a lot of her pasta sauces can also be a side dish or a stuffing for potatos or dressing for meats and fish. it is an enormously fun and seemingly effortless way to learn how to make really delicious, totally satisfying food.



3. The approach of this wonderful book is truly innovative. Erica de Mane takes the lay cook in hand and shows how much fun it can be to improvise in the kitchen. I am not particularly courageous when it comes to this sort of cooking and appreciate the encouragement. Whatsmore one has the option of simply following the recipes and getting marvelous results. The array of recipes are mouthwatering and those I have tried have pleased my two daughters who are difficult to please.



4. I have found so many wonderful recipies in this book. I would recomend it to all. She teachs you to not be afraid to try new things and really explore Italian cooking. I can't wait for more from her.



5. When I first saw Erica De Mane's 'Pasta Improvvisata' I was intrigued by the word improvisation.
   I was looking for a wedding gift for a friend of mine, an Italian Restaurant owner that I have had the pleasure to work with for several years. Obviously I looked inside in order to make sure that it would be a relevant addition to this experienced cook's varied library. Minutes and hours went by as I was marveling at the genuine, practical style and the feminine touch of Ms.De Mane.
   
   All I had ever thought of and learned about Italian cooking was expounded with amiable ease and spontaneity.
   I think I fell in love with Erica by page 10.
   
   As most Italian men I am skilled in carrying on late night conversations about technique, ingredients and legitimacy of classical and new recipes - in my case I am also a proficient, though not professional cook. In addition to that, like Erica, I come from a family that held cooking and its traditions in high esteem. My grandmother was Cordon Bleu de France and Sommelier and operated her own private cooking school for many years.
   In addition to that I have been working as a musician and entertainer in many renowned restaurants in Italy and other European countries over the past 20 years and I have experienced and learned first hand to appreciate the individual artistry of the local chefs.
   
   Erica put into beautiful words all I have ever thought about cooking and it's philosophy. She is never boring - on the contrary: on each page she manages to provide the aficionados with interesting, valuable essential tips and variations, with correct references to the many regional traditions and how to stretch and renew them without falling into the infamous trap of 'fusion'. Her recipes are complete and you can actually follow them word by word to a happy culinary ending - something all kitchen books promise and never maintain.
   An impossibility unless you already are an experienced cook.
   To me however, the most striking think is how she manages to translate flavors and their combinations into words and colors making her book a pleasure to read and dream by even if you are about to dine out...
   
   Improvisations is the modern Italian Jazz Thesaurus of Pastas and has become my reference guide, my new Bible of Italian Cuisine. It goes without saying that I left the shop with a second copy for myself and I am currently spreading the word buying many more for friends and foes. My next step will be to fly to N.Y. city in the hope of meeting Erica, propose to her and forever make mine her genuine artistic genius.
   
   Erica I love you. If you like Italian pasta this is the first book you have to get!

5 comments about Cooking from an Italian Garden.

1. A book I constantly turn to for ideas after I've looked in the vegetable bin or my orto in Tuscany to see what is available for dinner. It almost never lets me down. Imaginative, reliable and practical.



2. I have tried out dozens of recipes from this charming book, none have failed. Although the recipes here are all meatless, the book rises above the genre of vegetarian cooking; my carnivor friends have not even noticed the absence of meat. There are, after all, only two kinds of cooking, bad cooking and good cooking, and this book is about good cooking.



3. I love looking and cooking from this book. The soups are wonderful and have spent endless reading and cooking from this gem!



4. I'm not much of a cook, but I was delighted to receive this book from my friends Paola Scaravelli and Jon Cohen some years ago, and have occasionally turned to the recipes here when all other ideas fail me. It's a fantastic collection of meatless meals and other delights, and will be sure to please vegetarians, health-conscious cooks and anyone who's simply curious. A great book, even for those of us not known for our kitchen expertise.



5. I've been a vegetarian for many years and this is one of the first cookbooks I used. The recipes are amazing and authentic Italian. I wish they would reissue this book as I would like to buy a bunch of copies to give as gifts.