5 comments about Paris Boulangerie-Patisserie: Recipes from Thirteen Outstanding French Bakeries.

1. Do all recipes in this book work? Yes and No. I bought this book 8 years ago, every since then I tried each of the recipes to the dot. Few worked, most didn't come out close like in the pictures. The pictures are certainly pretty. BUT, the contact info regarding the locations of the pattiseries are very helpful. I didn't waste any seconds trying all the boulangeries/pattisseries while I was in Paris. And some newcomers are popping up near the address mentioned in the book. So if you fail make breads or pastries from this book, use this book as one of your 'travel guide' books when you go to France.



2. Beautiful book, enticing photos and the recipes, when they work, are excellent. This is not a book for beginning bakers, though. It requires some experience with home baking and patience because some of the quantities given are not exact and need a bit of adjusting and the essembly procedures need improvisation as well. Because many of the recipes are so involved, it takes some dexterity to reach the desired look and taste of the pastries. But when it works it is superb. I enjoyed the challenges, but buyers should beware.



3. This might be an okay cookbook but the font is so hard to read that I don't find it worth the time when there are other cookbooks out there that are not hard to read. I hope this printer of this book reads this.



4. 
   This is one my favorite books and even though I've been reading it for over 10 years ,I still go back to it and read it like it was just published.
   It 's like every time you read it you discover new things in it !
   
   a real jewel .



5. I bought this book in Paris before heading home on my last trip to France. I was spending change in the airport before heading home. I sat down on the plane with the book with no expectations of anything grand. I was engrossed for the first two hours of the trip home! The stories and content are really quite good. When I got home, I began to make the recipes. I didn't expect much at first, assuming that they would be too advanced because while I am certainly no novice, neither am I a French pastry chef! Wow! The recipes worked wonderfully and looked just as fabulous from my oven as the pictures. I love to be in Paris, but being in my kitchen creating these wonderful things is the next best thing. And for all of those who think these recipes are impossible, I've got two little ones helping who are under the age of four so it CAN be done!

5 comments about The French Diet: Why French Women Don't Get Fat.

1. The information in this book was direct & to the point in leading people to make healthy, dietary changes in one's life that are not too extreme & has been very helpful for me. I like that there are recipes included as well. This eating regimine is something one can easily do as a lifestyle change. I liked this type of diet as I don't need to focus on food or what I will be eating next as has happened with other diets.



2. My husband and I have tried every diet known to man (and woman). All have had some flaw or another that made them difficult to maintain (boring, expensive, just plain hungry). This diet focuses on Glycemic Index, so many carbs and fats are acceptable. The diet is very easy to follow long term, we don't get hungry, and many of the recipes included are really good! We even eat chocolate and drink wine... regularly!!! And we have each lost about 15 pounds in the 3 months we have been following this plan. This is a great plan for long term success, and is our new way of eating. It's not an instant weight loss program, but finally one we have found that we can comfortably follow for the long term and lose weight consistently.



3. This book was quite informative. I was very focused and clear.
   The plan is easy. the only issue is the lists of food are not all inclusive of american foods. Overall it was a quick easy read.



4. Just still idea from other book the book that I actually was lookingis by for and i got this by mistake



5. I love this book. I was on this diet when I was pregnant with my son and I lost weight in my 9th month. Excellent book and makes sense.

5 comments about The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine.

1. Even if you are not a culinary professional, 'Francophile' or 'world traveler' this combination of biography, food and fame, will keep you turning the pages. Written by a man deeply familiar with both Chef Bernard L. and the inside workings of France's culinary inner circle, it reads almost like a detective story (see The Making of a Chef) A cautionary tale for 'obsessive-compulsives' everywhere and foodies of all ranks, this is the book for you. Professional foodies will love it.



2. The career of French chef Bernard Loiseau (1951-2003) illustrates Seneca's statement there is no great genius without a touch of madness. On February 24, 2003, Loiseau committed suicide when his celebrated restaurant, Côte d'Or, was falsely rumoured to be in danger of losing its three-star Michelin rating. To Loiseau, taking his life was a question of honor. Parisian journalist, Rudolph Chelminski, follows Loiseau's rise to celebrity chef status in The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine, from Loiseau's apprenticeship as a teenager at the famous Roanne restaurant, Troisgros, between 1968 and 1971, to working for Claude Verger at La Barrière de Clichy in 1972, to again working Verger as a chef at the Côte d'Or in Saulieu, Burgundy, in 1975, where he developed a highly personal style of nouvelle cuisine. In 1982, Verger sold La Côte d'Or to Loiseau, and in 1991 the Michelin Guide awarded its coveted 3-star rating to the restaurant. The French government then awarded Loiseau with the title of Chevalier de la Légion d'honneur, Officier de l'ordre national du Mérite and Chevalier du Mérite agricole. Chelminski also chronicles Loiseau's slow descent into madness and self-doubt, resulting in his suicide, at a time when he was happily married and at the top of his profession. For Loiseau, cooking was always more than a career. It was his passion.
   
   Chelminski writes from a unique perspective in that he was personally acquainted with his larger-than-life subject for nearly three decades. He first met Loiseau in 1974, when the chef was 23 and already winning recognition with his culinary talents. Chelminski's fascinating book not only succeeds at revealing Loiseau as a charismatic, extroverted, workaholic-media-darling with manic tendencies, obsessed with winning three Michelin stars, but also at illuminating just how influential the Michelin Guide's rating system is on European restaurants. This book will appeal to francophiles, foodies, and restaurant critics alike.
   
   G. Merritt



3. the book is a pleasant read. insightful to the life of haute cuisine and the ways in which one will go so far for the stars.



4. Tragedies such as the suicide of Bernard Loiseau are all the more painful because the man was so extraordinary in so many ways. The story of France and haute cuisine is obsessively interesting, particularly in light of modern trends such as rock star chefs, television personalities and the ability to flit around the world just for a meal. The foodie within all of us must exalt over the descriptions even as we cringe at the incredible toil and effort expended toward such out-of-the-world meals.
   
   But PERFECTION is about a man who is not just obsessessed with the correct cooking time for a steak. No, he would spend days debating silver patterns, tablecloths, perfecting certain sauces, bestowing the experience of a lifetime on those lucky enough to visit La Cote d'Or. Loiseau is the quintessential French chef from the old school, an increasing rarity. Trained through the apprentice system from an early age, self-taught, strongly Catholic, patriotic, overflowing with life, creative to his fingertips - he was the perfect man for the perfect job. However, his mood swings (he was a manic-depressive) determined the fateful outcome.
   
   Michelin, the tire company and the restaurant guide author (one in the same) was featured prominently in the book as both a boon and bane to the industry. Even as it drove many to near madness or determined the fates of careers, it spurred tremendous advances. The evolution of the famous "star" rating system was fascinating and the way it developed into a gigantic movement that brought about an almost unapproachable standard was equally interesting. The author seems to suggest that the secrecy, subjectivism and monopoly of Michelin led not only to the tragedy but also untold worries and stress for others. Yet, those chefs who feel such pressure have willingly taken on this onerous burden. Several fine restaurants are discussed where the chef purposely ignores the guide and thus the stress and monumental expense required for maintaining such a lofty status.
   
   For those interested in the modern world of food and how we got to our current food craze, this is an excellent book. Students of psychology would also find the inner drives and actions more interesting that most case studies. My Grade: A-.



5. I agree with virtually all of the reviews, but I found the writing style incredibly irritating. There seems to be no word sufficiently arcane. Peers can only be confreres (and in italics), and some of the analogies are suitable for those with a doctorate in medieval history.
   Ironic given that Loiseau's was keen on presenting ingredients in their purest form.

5 comments about Grand Livre de Cuisine: Alain Ducasse's Culinary Encyclopedia.

1. This book is the reprint of the bigger verson. It is a good book and also easier to carry around. The recipes are great. Its worthy to get it.



2. This is actually much more useful than the original because it is a reasonable size and can be flipped through and really used. It is a tremendous resource because it explains exactly how the dishes are prepared in Ducasse's very serious and perfectionist restaurants with professional equipment, sous-vide, salamanders, etc. If you read French the small edition of the original is probably even more useful.



3. A quotation from the Introduction, written by Jean-Francois Revel, of the Academie Francaise: "By imitating the masters, one cannot of course reach their level of perfection, but one often escapes the routine of one's own banality. You are going to discover the French art, one which has never been so alive, in the following pages. May then and from now on your dream, inspired by Alain Ducasse, direct your hands, as fallible as they may be!" Rather edgy, I think, but probably accurate.
   
   First, this is a thousand page volume, genuinely a Culinary Encyclopedia, pulled together by a team of chefs under famed chef, Alain Ducasse. There are some wild elements to it, such as lobster recipes from page 422 through page 491 (almost 70 pages worth of lobster works!). Some nice features at the close of this volume: a glossary of terms, some basic recipes (consomme, stocks, jellies, juices, etc.), serving quantities associated with different dishes, and a seasonal table of meats, vegetables, fruits.
   
   Second, though, it's the recipes that make this book fascinating. Here, I'll say it at the outset. There are some (many, even most) recipes here that I would never try. I'm too impatient and don't know all the skills needed for some of the dishes. Take, for example, Wild Roasted Hare Saddle. The process of preparation and cooking is complex--from cutting up the hare and reserving its lungs, kidneys, heart, etc. Next, each segment of the recipe is complex, with steps one does not usually experience, such as shredding the hare's shoulders with pliers. You create a sauce, with a first and a second thickener, plus a garnish for the finale. I imagine that this would be delicious when eaten, but I get exhausted looking at the process of preparation.
   
   However, there are some recipes that seem like they are doable and would be fun and taste good. Acacia Blossom Fritters for one. You begin with a bunch of acacia flowers and then create a fritter batter Put the acacia flowers in the batter and fry in grapeseed oil. Looks tasty!
   
   This is an absolutely massive volume, and even though many recipes won't get into my household's menus, they are enchanting to read. For one thing, I admire the work of the team that would put these dishes together in a restaurant. For another, it makes me appreciate more what goes into the work of a "starred" restaurant.
   
   So, even though the bulk of these recipes don't fit my modus operandi of cooking, I will try some and will appreciate what goes into fine dishes more than I ever did before.



4. The book came quickly. It was packaged very well. The product was in excellent condition and I wouldnt know the difference beween a the book I recieved and one purchased at full price



5. This could have been a wonderful book. There are many exciting recipes, both in concept and execution. Alas, where some techniques are explained ad nauseam, as if to a five year old, others have no explanation at all. Fortunately the original French titles appear alongside the English versions and quantities are given in metric as well as American measurements. There are a number of errors in the English version. Of particular interest are the recipes for sous-vide cooking. But,even here,timing is often omitted. I shall use the book but it is a disappointment. I wish I had bought it in the original French although there is no guarantee that the editors were any more attentive to its production

4 comments about SmartFrench - Introduction to French, Vol.1.

1. This method works. Period. I have a bookshelf full of French language learning tools (books, CD's, flashcards), and they seem useless now that I am using SmartFrench. I listen to it six days a week. I'm going to be able to converse at length with someone on the street in Paris when we go this summer. I have been studying French almost daily for 3 months, and I was to the point where I wished for a program (like this new SmartFrench method!) that would just teach the basics: the most used verbs, and an easy way to become proficient in counting (pay attention to how many times a day you say numbers and you'll see why it's critical in learning a foreign language). Because I'm tired of only learning to ask, "I would like a croissant", or "Where is the bathroom?", I am thrilled that this method is helping me to have a two-way conversation in French. I'm already speaking French to my twin (a French speaker) and she just laughs--she is so shocked at my progress.
   
   This is a simple, simple program. The SmartFrench Audio Cds Beg I, Vol. 1 Vol. 2 (separate purchases) figured out which essential vocabulary words, verbs (4 of them), and phrases you need to know to speak French quickly. This method also teaches you counting. It's unbelievable that this simple, easy approach has never been done before. I'm glad someone finally did it! Some of the most successful, useful inventions become obvious to the rest of us after someone comes up with the idea, and we smack our foreheads with the palm of our hands thinking, "Why didn't I think of that? It's so obvious!" SmartFrench is like that.
   
   The teacher on the CD is really gifted. He speaks at a perfect speed, or tempo, his voice is easy to listen to, and he's SMART! It's literally like taking a French class without having to go to school. He gives you tips, clues, and ideas on how to remember things. You get the sense that he truly, truly wants to help you become proficient in speaking French.
   
   Have you felt like giving up on learning French? Try this program and you'll get excited about it again. Have a Francophile in your life? This would be the PERFECT GIFT for them.
   
   Side note:
   *The "Beginner Level" and the "Intermediate/Advanced Level" CD's are also great, but have a different approach (VERY effective). Those CD's help tune your ear to the French language as you listen to native French speakers, at the same time teaching you to speak along with a really cool, innovative approach.
   *The CD-Rom is also great. Very interactive. Nice to see the native French people speaking. Helps me to understand how to pronounce things even better and to see typical French mannerisms.
   
   25 April 2008
   One-and-a-half months after my last review I am still listening to SmartFrench. It is the best way to learn how to speak and understand spoken French bar none. The only way I can describe the reason that it works (since I am a musician), is that it is like listening to a song that you love. Once you have heard the melody a few times, it sticks in your head. The SmartFrench method makes French stick in my head. To me, French is very melodic, and it is a language that I love and want to learn. The narrator is the PERFECT teacher to teach you the 'melody' of the French language with its lilting sounds and liaisons. His voice quality, his flawless French and the way he explains each hint is perfect. He gives you all the secret phrases that every French person uses regularly, which you don't find in textbooks or other programs. Bravo, bravo, bravo! C'est vachement bon.



2. This is a wonderful learning tool. After listening to this for the first time, I knew that this was exactly what I was looking for to begin learning French. Just a few minutes in and I said to myself, "This is just what I need!". You get the basics that you need to truly build a solid foundation for learning the language. The pacing of the lessons is just right, and they are very pleasant to listen to as well. You feel like you're in the hands of a good, smart, wise teacher. I love using it, and I recommend it strongly.



3. This is an excellent program for learning to speak French the way it's supposed to be spoken. School classes teaches the hard stuff, like grammar, etc., and not exactly how to speak/listen to the language. We tried a few other programs and were fairly disappointed until we got SmartFrench. This is an excellent program where you learn to speak, and as importantly, listen to French the way it's supposed to be spoken at different speeds. This first set of CDs (Introduction Vol 1 and Vol 2) will give you an introduction to simple everyday words, as well as some fundamental French language structure, and how to use them. Also, the 5 most used verbs are explained on their usage.
   
   Finally, if you're an absolute beginner in the French language, this Vol 1 and Vol 2 will get you started in the right direction. Afterwards, the next sets (SmartFrench Beginner, Intermediate/Advanced) will get you further in developing the right speaking/listening skills. This program focuses mainly on the speaking/listening aspect of the language and it does it extremely well. This SmartFrench program should be used in conjunction with reading, watching French TV/movies, and working with other French grammar programs if you want total fluency in the language. Enjoy!



4. I love the SmartFrench products with native French speakers in conversation, but the Introduction to French, Vol 1 and 2, I, personally, would skip, because they are "explanations" of grammar, and I think it is more effective to go right to listening to the conversations, and absorbing the sound and flow, and than speaking. Even with no previous French, I think this is the best way to learn, because this is how I learned the language years ago. So, while this is a good product, I personally would invest in the CD-ROM or CDs with the conversations by native French speakers....and would bypass the CDs which explain grammar.

5 comments about We've Always Had Paris...and Provence: A Scrapbook of Our Life in France.

1. This was my introduction to Patricia Wells, about whom I've heard and read so much over the years. Her cookbooks may be wonderful, but the writing in this book certainly is not. The language is uninspired and the details she and her journalist husband choose to share about themselves are almost embarrassing. There also wasn't a single recipe that sounded appealing. The descriptions of Provence were lovely, and it's nice that they've made such a happy life for themselves, but somehow the way they present it all just comes off wrong. Readers would be much better served by picking up Jacques Pepin's charming memoir, The Apprentice.



2. some of the anecdotes are interesting, i found overall the book was a featherweight and self- aggrandizing.



3. The book is a charming account of a life in France.
   It might seem self-indulgent, but one should note
   the humble origins of the authors.



4. If you have ever dreamed of living in a foreign country, this book will enlighten and entertain you. Two ordinary, extraordinary people who went to France for work, and stayed.



5. I bought the actual book (not on my kindle)because I was looking forward to the photos and recipes, what a mistake!
   The photos are dull. I noticed two of the recipes were already published (in slightly different form) from her "P. W. Home in Provence" book (Grape Harvest Cake and Corsican Ricotta Cheesecake).
   More disturbing pages 183 and 202 of this new book have exact passages from the Introduction of her "P. W. Home in Provence" book. Isn't there an editor anywhere? Is this legit to pass off without attribution?

5 comments about Repertoire de La Cuisine, Le: A Guide to Fine Foods.

1. This book was recommened to me by one of the other Chefs that I work with. It has been increasingly important to me when I don't wish to pull out Escoffier and need a quick reference or just a notion or tickle of what goes into a dish. If you are a home cook I don't recommend this book as it is beyond the scope of most home cooks to understand but if you are a professional and don't yet own a copy I suggest that you treat yourself to this delightful work. the grouping can be hard to get used to but once you are past that you are home free. Enjoy!



2. I am a Chef specializing in French cooking and this book is a "must have". I could only give it 4 stars as it is not available in paperback that I could keep in my back pocket while in the kitchen.



3. If you want to know everything in full, detailed explanations with pictures and such, but you're past Martha Stewart, Rachael Ray and --god forbid-- Sandra Lee, then get the Joy of Cooking, or the Larousse Gastronomique.
   
   If you think of this as more of a chef's pocket dictionary, you'll better understand what this book's intent and purpose is.



4. Great book. Not for everyone, as doesn't give weights etc. just the bare facts. Love it



5. Repertoire de La Cuisine, Le: A Guide to Fine Foods
   We bought this book for our son who is a chef for his 21st birthday. He thought it had gone out of print so it was a fantastic surprise as he thought it was unobtainable.

5 comments about Terrine.

1. I will premise this review by stating that I love Reynaud's first book. I also like the flavors and techniques in this book as well. However, if you do not have an understanding of food, many of these recipes will not work as is. I am a professional chef and one of my specialties is charcuterie. Many of the recipes, do not contain enough eggs in the recipes to allow them to properly set. I followed the recipes exactly to see if they would come out and at least five of the mousseline forcemeat based recipes and they did not set properly. I really wanted to love this book, but there are serious issues with the production formulas. My only explanation for this is that in Europe their cream is much denser and higher in fat than ours and the quality of eggs are higher and as such the recipes may be set for their products, not those found in the United States as our laws do not allow for the fat content allowed in European cream. So be forewarned that you will have to work with these cream based recipes when buying this book.



2. great recipes, very creative, but he has an affliction towards cooking half the recipes with plastic wrap...hence bleeding poisons into his food. strange that he did not make the effort to figure out another way to do it.



3. This book fills a real void in my extensive cookbook library. Just as I was researching recipes for the various delicious terrines I have tasted throughout France without success, Stephane Reynaud released this comprehensive cookbook on this subject. This is an excellent resource for those who love to entertain. I highly recommend this book.
   
   Just last week, I made his chicken terrine and it was fabulous! Tonight I may make the fish terrine. I highly recommend this book.



4. One way to wow guests at one's next dinner party is with a lesser known by delicious dish - the terrine (so called because of the glazed earthenware baking dish in which it is cooked). "Terrine" takes a look at this French dish and inflects a simple and pure taste upon it, rare in this day of complex gourmet food. Covering vegetable, meat, cheese, and dessert terrines, "Terrine" is a top pick for any cookbook collection looking for something different, and for community libraries looking for a new addition.



5. This book was a bust.
   I know what gelatine leaf is as I once lived in Europe. I live in Berkeley California now, and you don't find gelatine leaf on the shelf here. Just how much granulated gelatine is a good substitute for "one leaf"? Other authors have spent the time and effort to have their recipes bridge the Atlantic, Stephane Reynaud did not.
   
   Perhaps if Reynaud tested his recipes in the USA first before selling his book to readers here they would have a better chance of enjoying their labors.

5 comments about Joie de Vivre: Simple French Style for Everyday Living.

1. I purchased this book from Amazon more than 2 years ago. I find myself time and time again turning to Joie de Vivre for recipes, dinner party ideas and general inspiration. It is so wonderful! So stylish, yet so warm, cozy and inviting. Robert Arbor takes the 'gently gently' approach with his readers - he knows we're all stressed, overworked and unwilling victims of a processed food culture. He knows that we want to slow things down a little, enjoy life more. He knows that we want to have less mind numbing TV and mass-media in our lives (and MUCH less exposure to this ridiculous celebrity worship going on right now) and more quality interaction with friends and family. Monsieur Arbor completely understands that we don't all live in gorgeous French farmhouses or bohemian Parisian maisons (he is a New Yorker for much of the year)and he encourages readers from all walks of life to basically 'get a life'. I love it and I recommend this book to all.



2. I bought this book, on the recommendation of Diane F. Von Behren and Lee Mellott, two reviewers that I've begun to really trust here on Amazon. I was delighted to find, that typical of the other books I've bought on their say so, this one too is a joy to read and own.
   
   It is idealistic. That IS the point.
   
   This is a book ABOUT slowing down, thinking thru the day, not rushing from 7 am into eternity with one's head down, speeding thru an ever increasing load of chores till you drop dead wondering what life was all about.
   
   I think this whole French/North American contrast genre of books, whether it's French women not getting fat or the Entre Nous book are all about re thinking an approach to life.
   
   A little wake up call to examine what is important.
   
   There are plenty of things I love about being a Canadian that make me very different from the French in France, or the American in America and that I prefer to hang onto. Some things won't change. They work for me.
   
   But not because I hit the default button and just am Canadian because I was born here, and never thought about changing anything about me.
   
   I think one of the joys of life is changing those things we don't like to stuff we do like.
   
   Taking a broad cultural over view of the French way of life, and comparing it to the American (or British/Canadian/Australian etc) way makes it easy to spot the areas where we can borrow a better way and add it into our lives.
   
   Enriching my life with some excellent recipes, and a conscious re thinking of life patterns (thru my day, my year or how I run my life) is the value in this book.
   
   It is NOT a critique of America, rather it is an explanation of one mans view of life as he lives it, complete with recipes, side notes, cultural observations and the like.
   
   IT is the reader who is allowed to then observe, contrast, and critique their own life and decide whether or not doing things differently would be a worthwhile change, something that could add to one's joie de vivre.
   
   In my case it has. I'm stopping and enjoying life more as a result. My life is better, and yes, I have a little more joie de vivre as a result of this book.
   
   I think it is a wonderful addition to my library and plan to keep it.



3. I really enjoyed the overall tone and suggestion on how to slow down and savor life a little more. A very touching, sweet book.



4. I can't believe only one other person gave this a poor rating. Maybe the others didn't even bother. I picked up this book at the library, thankfully, so I can return it.
   
   This book provides nothing more than a look at the insipid life of a man with a hyphenated identity, but claims to be only French. Most of the images in this book are of his home, friends and kids. It's like a family newsletter made thick and glossy. I honestly don't care to know so much about him.
   
   Sure, it's charming to have a home in the French countryside. If you want to read some escapist travelogue, which can be fun, there are lots of those around. If you're looking for a cookbook, find one of those. And if you're looking to improve your life, then head to self-help. This book is none of these. It's just plain dumb.



5. I LOVED this book -I have read it twice. I lose myself in it and wish the American way of life had more of this Joie de Vivre.

3 comments about CHARCUTERIE AND FRENCH PORK COOKERY.

1. `Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery' is the prominent 20th century English culinary writer, Jane Grigson's first book, first published in 1967. Like her last book, `English Food' and unlike many of her intermediate books, this is a very scholarly book that may not have much appeal to the average amateur cook. It is much closer to a technical book on how to make and cook with forcemeats and cured pork products than a source for the home cook. As I will discuss later, that doesn't mean it has no value for the amateur cook, especially those for whom cooking has become a hobby or avocation.
   
   Grigson is one of the most prominent disciples of the great English culinary writer, Elizabeth David, who, through Grigson, Alan Davidson, Jill Norman, Claudia Roden and American, Richard Olney has influenced a large share of a generation of English language culinary writers and restaurateurs. David is a palpable presence throughout this book with references to her works and her London cookware shop sprinkled liberally throughout the text. In a sense, this book is an extension to David's own `French Provincial Cooking', as Grigson picks up on one of the most important specialities of French home and commercial cooking.
   
   I sense an increased interest in `charcuterie' throughout the American culinary reading public. Of course, the Food Network has not yet come out with a show on `charcuterie' but I have seen on DVD an episode on sausage making done by Julia Child and at least two of Alton Brown's `Good Eats' shows have been dedicated to these subjects. The most convincing evidence is the publication of the recent book, `Charcuterie' by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Poleyn and certainly the easily satirized Emeril Lagasse exclamation that `pork fat rules'. Although it sounds like a gimmick, it is certain, confirmed by millennia of practice, that pork fat (lard) is by far the most useful animal fat, far more useful than beef s suet, chicken fat, or lamb fat. It has the finest consistency and by far the best taste, as evidenced by the high value placed on bacon fat as a flavoring throughout the European cuisines, most especially in the cuisine of the southern United States. As Grigson so neatly summarizes at the end of her book, pork fat is to ambient temperature meat preservation what sugar and acid is to fruit and vegetable preservation (pickling and preserves).
   
   For those with no sense of what `charcuterie' is, let me identify the most common examples. These are ham, breakfast sausage, `Italian' sausage', meat loaf, pates, and scrapple. As this book includes recipes for things to do with `charcuterie' products, I recommend this as a source of recipes for things to do with ham. Outside of the thousands of uses for the famous dried hams such as Italian procuitto, German Westphalian Ham, Spanish Serrano ham, and Bayonne hams, I am often at a loss when looking for something to do with a small ham dish for one or two people. I will also recommend this book to all those who are fond of brining techniques. I can't say this with any authority, but I suspect the current wisdom about brining springs from Grigson's writings, as interpreted by writers such as Shirley Corriher.
   
   Even if you have no intention whatsoever to invest in sausage making equipment or a grinder attachment to your Kitchen-aid, this is a great foodie read. And, that is not only for entertainment. The recipes for the dozens of sausages, pates, and other forcemeats can offer a wealth of ideas on making new stuffings for things like cabbage, peppers, and tomatoes.
   
   The only problem one may experience with the procedures in this book is with the scarcity of fat on our new pig. One can only gasp at the comparison between the average American pork chop and the richly fatted chop exhibited on an `Oliver's Twist' show by Jamie Oliver, harvested from an artisinally raised porker in rural England.
   
   In many ways, this is actually a better book than the much more recent Ruhlman / Poleyn book, as it covers a much broader range of procedures and recipes and takes a more critical attitude towards the subject. It is immensely reassuring to find an informed writer say that the Italian sausage, mortadella is really a bit on the bland side. And here, I thought my taste had not refined enough to appreciate this famous Italian product. And yet, for the casual reader, Ruhlman is probably a better choice as all his sources and references are modern, while Grigson often refers to sources which are nothing more than a find memory.



2. I am on an unholy mission to convert a few Amazonians to the pleasures of do-it-yourself charcuterie. My travels in search of gustatory ecstacy have revealed many a depressing deficiency in American food, one of the most egregious of which is the state of this country's meats. Besides the much-publicized and lamented feed-lot economy that guarantees cheap and flavorless meat for all, we have forfeited the rich, varied, and highly-localized meat traditions of Europe. We have replaced flavor, texture, and local nuance with industrial products that satisfy the huge distributors but leave our tongues and bellies beggared. I am writing a series of reviews that laud a few recent books that do a great job in trying to rectify this impoverishment.
   
   Perhaps the most thorough and comprehensive of the bunch is Jane Grigson's. Over almost 350 dense, detailed pages she covers the hows and whys of charcuterie. Everything from tools and methods to the meat itself is presented in lucid prose, with a fine eye to determining what, exactly, the reader needs to know to make good meat products at home. Sausages of every kind and description, pates, terrines, puddings, saltings, fresh pork preparations, sauces, gallantines... the scope of this book approaches the scope of knowledge a Franch charcutier might possess. Few details escaped Grigson's attention, for her purpose was no humbler than to revive charcuterie in Britain. If she accomplished nothing more than to inspire Fergus Henderson to become the greatest meat-man of his generation, she should rest in peace.
   
   The book has many virtues, readability and enthusiasm not least among them. But its real gift is its comprehensiveness and its almost unique ability to guide the reader through unfamiliar territory. This is a real, fundamental, primary cookbook. Anything more basic would be a farming manual. Which brings me to the point I started to make at the beginning of this screed: our American meat situation is bad because we allow much too much mediation between live meat animals and what we put in our mouths. What Grigson proposes is a hands-on, direct, sensory, real involvement with the raw materials. This, as the great French and Italian food traditions demonstrate so unasailably, is fundamental to great food. When you give up the cheap pleasures of supermarket hamburger and try your hand at basic charcuterie, you will enter a world of memorable pleasures and perhaps rekindle that most basic human value: respect for the sources of what we eat.
   
   You may find my review of Fergus Henderson's The Whole Beast useful in your education as a carnivore.
   
   Enjoy.



3. I haven't tested the recipes for accuracy, but cool book. Very informative and a good look at long forgotten dishes. The section on crepenette alone is worth the price of the book.