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CALIFORNIA COOKING BOOKS

Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

The Summertime Anytime Cookbook: Recipes from Shutters on the Beach Written by Dana Slatkin. By Clarkson Potter. The regular list price is $32.50. Sells new for $17.64. There are some available for $9.13.
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5 comments about The Summertime Anytime Cookbook: Recipes from Shutters on the Beach.
  1. Fantastic book! Delicious, healthy, easy to prepare recipes with neat lifestyle tips sprinkled throughout. I received this book as a gift and will be returning the favor by gifting my friends with it. It's my new favorite.


  2. As a food journalist, recipe developer, and recipe tester I've done more than my share of cooking from cookbooks and often find that the recipes don't inspire me or are too complicated to embark on for everyday meals.

    What I absolutely love about this cookbook is that the recipes are not only easy, but they also happen to be extraordinarily good. Again and again I am delighted with how fantastic the food tastes, and how approachable the ingredients and instructions are.

    I truly cannot say enough good things about this book.


  3. This is great recipe book. There are many great ideas and it's easy to find something to inspire you. I have tried half a dozen of the recipes and two in particular (the chocolate pie and the roasted veg) have become family favourites. Indeed the chocolate pie (and pie crust) recipe is worth the cost of the book on its own.

    So why only four stars? Anyone who prints a recipe for lemon tart with gelatin to make it set, automatically loses a star - I am sure that this is not how it's cooked in Shutters! Also some of the dressings have an odd balance between oil and vinegar that will not be to many people's taste. Finally, there are a couple of stir-fried recipes which suggest cooking the food for too long.

    If you have already bought this book, then I would suggest that you check Bill Granger's recipe books which are very similar in terms of inspiration and style.


  4. I love Shutters and every time I am in Santa Monica I try and go their for lunch. The food always tastes fresh, straight-forward, healthy and delicious!
    I was thrilled that they now have a cookbook. The recipes are well written, simple to follow and use ingredients that are easy to get. The pictures are very enticing as well. I just made the strawberry-rhubarb cobbler and my whole family loved it. The crust is just a little lighter than I normally make and this will now become our classic cobbler recipe.If I can't be at Shutters in Santa Monica then I am happy to have the next best thing - THE SUMMERTIME ANYTIME COOKBOOK! -


  5. You're friends will taut you as a gourmet chef when you present any one of these recipes! EVERYTHING is delicious and easy to do... I'm not a professional chef, ask anyone, I just enjoy cooking and this book has a wonderful collection of tasty dishes. I especially enjoyed the part where she discusses the items you should always have in your pantry, like grapseed oil. Who knew? Now I use grapeseed oil for all kinds of things in addition to the recipes in this book. I love this book so much I'm going to quickly cook my way through it. I even bought it for my friend b/c she loved everything in it so much too. Lemon ricotta pancakes anyone?


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (California Studies in Food and Culture) Written by Amy B. Trubek. By University of California Press. The regular list price is $18.95. Sells new for $12.83. There are some available for $36.97.
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3 comments about The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (California Studies in Food and Culture).
  1. Amy Trubek's book is really outstanding. She traces her cultural journey in different regions of the country (and France) to help the reader understand the importance of food that comes from one's own town or region. As a food anthropologist, the text is rich with examples of what chefs, farmers, and enlightened individuals are doing to connect local delicious food to the activities within their communities, in other words, how they are creating a taste of place.


  2. My wife and I had the opportunity to see the author speak on the Taste of Place at a local library. It was pretty fascinating, and in some ways added more perspective to the book. They had maple syrups from around New England to taste as an example of the diversity of taste opportunities. This is why I attended, as I'm a local sugarmaker (http://www.tillinghastmaple.com). Covering the topic from a social as well as a food perspective, the book is much more than just a set of observations of product diversity related to location. It's more about people and how they develop community patterns of production and consumption. I highly recommend the book, even if you're not a "localvore" and typically find food production issues tedious.


  3. Fabulous read! While I'm not much of a wine connoisseur, the opening section on wines was excellent background material for what was, for me, the "meat" of the book. That is, the sections on local food pioneers in different parts of the US. I want to go to those markets!

    Trubek did an excellent job of portraying both the theoretical and practical perspectives of "taste of place" such that I, the reader, am further inspired to be involved with a growing local foods initiative in my own community. Well, hey, isn't that the hallmark of a good non-fiction read? I do believe it is. And on my next venture past Madison, WI, I'm planning to do some exploring.


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

Secrets of Success Cookbook: Signature Recipes and Insider Tips from San Francisco's Best Restaurants Written by Michael Bauer. By Chronicle Books. The regular list price is $19.95. Sells new for $99.08. There are some available for $22.50.
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5 comments about Secrets of Success Cookbook: Signature Recipes and Insider Tips from San Francisco's Best Restaurants.
  1. Wish I would have seen the list of receipes before buying this book. Too many have items I would never be interested in like quail, squab and liver -- YUK!! Also, who has the time to grind their own meat for burgers? I am sending this one back ASAP.


  2. If you want the luxury of eating out (and paying premium price) and don't want to bother with food prep, this book isn't for you. But if you enjoy the creativity, fun and economical (compared to restaurant prices) results of making your own meals you'll love this book. Admittedly, some of the recipes and ingredients are a bit out of the ordinary (Tongue Salad, for instance) but others use ordinary ingredients to get extraordinary results (Polenta Soup, made nothing more unusual than cornmeal, spices, some broth, etc). And the desserts...ahhh...try the Creme Brulee with the unusual addition of Cognac..or the Coconut Cake with Caramel ...or the Pear Broche Bread Pudding....and savor the results.


  3. Everything I've tried in this cookbook has been great. I lived in the Bay Area for quite a while and I miss many of the restaurants. This cookbook lets me enjoy some of the great food I had in San Francisco without buying a plane ticket.

    Especially tasty have been: Pan-Seared Hailbut with Leek and Pernod Sauce, Pork Braised in Milk and Herbs, Garlic Chicken, and my all-time favorte rib recipe Baby Back Ribs with Ginger-Soy Glaze.

    I've learned a lot from the recipes in this book. The "Secrets of Success" sidebars are really helpful. For example, I learned that cooking ribs three times -- steaming, baking, then grilling--makes the ribs incredbily tender and juicy.

    I don't quite understand the other reviewers' objections to the ingredients. Is it really that hard to get items like saffron, Pernod, or soft goat cheese outside of major cities? This book's recipes don't require many ingredients more exotic than these. And yes, there is a recipe for tongue salad, but there are also over a dozen recipes for chicken.

    This cookbook doesn't just sit on the shelf, I'm regularly trying new recipes and almost all of them have been successes. I might even try the Liver and Onions with Apples.



  4. Besides being a good read, the recipes are just wonderful. I am a professional cook and have used several with great results. There are many 'easy' recipes as well as the predictable 2,000 step restaurant-type ones. Don't be put off by this. If you like TASTE---this is a great cookbook. Try the 'chocolate mousse'---to die for....


  5. A serious foodie that has been perfecting her cooking skills for the last 25 years in her home kitchen writes this review. My favorite cookbook is "The Professional Chef" by the Culinary Institute of America. I am also a cookbook collector, with more than 500 books in my cooking library. With the many books in my cookbook collection I find that I am frequently disappointed in my recent purchases. That was not the case with this purchase.

    This book is one of those little gems that is full of tidbits of information that can make anyone a better cook. In the introduction the author shares what he refers to as the general truths that any home cook can use to make himself or herself a better cook. These are wonderful tips, and I will share them below:
    1. Marinating and/or brining meat and vegetables makes a big difference in the final quality of a dish.
    2. Using more than one method of cooking in the same dish. Example searing a chicken breast on the stovetop and then finishing it in the oven.
    3. Swirl a little butter in the pan to finish a sauce just before plating.
    4. Reduce, reduce, and reduce your sauces.
    5. Finish your pasta in the sauce. A tip every Italian knows by heart.
    6. Crank up the heat of the oven and on the stovetop.
    7. Weighing ingredients is much more precise than measuring when baking.
    8. Balancing flavors in critical.

    The recipes in this book are amazing. If you have ever eaten in San Francisco you know how marvelous the food is in that town. This book takes the best of a real food town and puts it together in one book. I have enjoyed every recipe in this book that I have tried. Every recipe includes a little tip in a separate box that the author wants to highlight. These tips are really wonderful for anyone that wants to improve their cooking skills. I wish that this book had been around 25 years ago when I began seriously honing my cooking skills.

    Of all the recipes included in this book, I think that the one from Wolfgang Puck for his Smoked Salmon Pizza with Lemon Creme Fraiche, Red Onion and Caviar is hands down my favorite.

    I would recommend this book to anyone that is a foodie. I have not had any difficulty locating any of the ingredients that the recipes call for at my local mega marts (Wegman's and/or Whole Foods).


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia Written by Darra Goldstein. By University of California Press. The regular list price is $21.95. Sells new for $13.05. There are some available for $8.75.
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5 comments about The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia.
  1. As someone who was born and grew up in Tbilisi, I was very happy to find this book -- it captures all of my favorite recipes, and when I prepare them according to this book, they taste just like my grandma's cooking.

    More than just a recipe book, this is also an exploration into the rich history and culture of Georgia, and how the history shaped the cuisine. I suggest this book to everyone who would like to add some interesting preparations to their cooking. For vegetarians, Georgians have plenty of healthful and filling ways to prepare veggies and beans, and also some mouth watering sauces that will enliven any dish (veg or not).

    I enjoy this book both as a cook book, and as a historical book!


  2. I've already written a review of this great book. I have only one suggestion: the basic khmeli suneli recipe can be augmented further to reach the authentic smell and taste. The wikipedia article on khmeli suneli has additional ingredients that can be added to the recipe. I tried that, about 2 teaspoons of each ingredient that's not already in Darra's recipe (less for black and chili pepper), and it came closer to the authentic smell and taste. I think the author of the wikipedia article might have meant safflower (marigold) instead of saffron though, so I didn't add that.


  3. This is a marvelous, utterly authentic encyclopedia of Georgian cooking. I tried some of the recipes before leaving for Georgia in summer 2006, and they were great, and gave me a good idea of what to expect. Once in Georgia, the book was an invaluable reference that I constantly turned to whenever I tried something new. Just about *everything* I had is in here, along with many things I didn't get around to sampling.

    This book also helped me learn the correct Georgian names for the dishes and many of the ingredients. A significant portion of the book is devoted to providing cultural background on Georgia and Georgian food, such the elaborate rules for a _tamada_, or Georgian toastmaster. With its charming photos of representative paintings scattered generously throughout its pages, it also made me a Pirosmani fan, and better able to appreciate the originals when I saw them for myself.

    Most importantly, as the other reviewers say, the recipes *work*. We just made the potato salad with walnut paste (p. 172), and it was delectable. Other dishes we have tried and like include tomato soup with walnuts and vermicelli (p. 73) and green beans with egg (p. 130). Pkhali was one of my favorite dishes in Georgia, and I'm glad to have the recipe for when I get around to making it myself. There is a recipe for beets with cherry sauce, a dish a travel companion had tried but that even some of our Georgian hosts weren't familiar with. For the few recipes that seem to be missing from this book, like eggplant with walnut paste, try Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook, another excellent collection of delicious recipes from all the former Soviet republics.

    _The Georgian Feast_ is well worth having even if you don't eat meat - many of the recipes are completely vegetarian. This book is a real treasure.


  4. This is an ok effort by Ms. Goldstein but unfortunately the recipes don't quite result in the amazing flavors that Georgian cuisine is known for. Perhaps it is Ms. Goldstein's substitutions of less authentic ingredients as some ingredients in the "real" dish are hard to find. Perhaps it is something else. (Her "adjika" is REALLY bad/wrong for instance....)

    OK book if you want an idea of what Georgian cuisine is like. Not good if you REALLY want the real thing...


  5. Book: "The Georgian Feast", by Darra Goldstein

    Winner of the IACP Book of the Year for 1999, Professor Darra Goldstein's "The Georgian Feast" offers English speaking Westerners an interesting and well researched peek at the cuisine of the Georgia. Not the State of Georgia in the Southeastern United States, mind you, but rather THE GEORGIA, as in the (formerly Soviet) Republic of Georgia, which spans the lands between the Black and Caspian seas, north of Turkey, and South of Russia. The veritable crossroads of the ancient world, through which much of the trade between Europe, Greece, Rome, Russia, India, the Mid East, and China flowed.

    LIKES:

    * INTRODUCTION: For me, the single biggest joy of this book is the in-depth introduction to Georgian history, geography, and culture ... something I wish more authors would attempt, but which all too often is limited to only the most capable, motivated, and historically erudite authors, few of whom bother to turn their attentions to the culinary genre. In this case, we are blessed with a Russian Professor who labored to assemble an engrossing overview of Georgian feast cuisine. The 25 page introduction and 57 page cultural excursion chapters are gems, and are worth the cover price of the book, all by themselves.

    * HEAD NOTES: Many of the recipes in part 2 also include indepth and informative head notes on the ethnic origin and cultural contexts of a given recipe, sometimes replete with cultural vignettes and famous quotes. Again, something I wish more authors would include. To me, a recipe is a participatory story in which you commune with those who created and enjoyed the recipe before you ... and those who will go on making the recipe after you are gone.

    * ETHNIC BREADTH: The author covers a wide smattering of the styles present in the cuisine ... grilled fare, pilafs, stews, salads, pickles, soups, desserts, and goes to considerable effort to identify the ethnic and geographical origins behind selections from each. She also spends a little time covering things like `feast' etiquette, and hospitality, that many Westerners will find interesting.


    MINOR NITS:

    * UNPOLISHED RECIPES: The author does an excellent job relating historical and cultural tidbits, but her recipe documentation skills are a bit uneven and unpolished ... walking a meandering line between antique/rustic, and (in a few places) modern. Personally, I don't mind unpolished free-form historical recipes that omit helpful things like the optimum size/shape of vegetable dice (and meat fabrication), size/type of pan, suggested cooking times, optimal sequencing of steps, comforting photos, and tips on making ahead or leftovers management. However, those who DO feel a strong need for such things may be disappointed by their absence.

    * MINOR NON-AUTHENTIC SLIPS: The author does a fine job in most of the book giving slightly modernized adaptation of authentic recipes. However, in several instances, some recipes are over modernized, to their detriment. For example, the recipe for "Cold Jellied Pork" on p.96, the authoress indicates the use of pigs feet and a little pork shoulder, but in deference to modern sensibilities, calls for the feet to be discarded after simmering (prior to straining and reducing the stock to a jelly into which the meat is set). I'm pretty certain, sight unseen, that period recipes would likely have called for the feet to be simply deboned and coarsely chopped along with the shoulder, rather than discarded ... such waste is only common to modern cuisine.

    * MINOR ERRORS: Minor errors abound - such as the yeast bread on p.138 that appears to call for too much yeast.

    * IMPRECISE TERMINOLOGY: In addition to the frequent lack of things like dice size, the author sometimes uses terms in a somewhat vague fashion ... such as "Salt" (is it fine table salt, medium salt, or coarse salt ?), yeast (baker's ? instant rise ?) or "Dried Fenugreek", the latter of which the reader must hunt around to confirm that it refers to dried ground leaves, not dried ground seeds. The helpful introductory chapter on ingredients covers some (but not all) of these, but the editor could and should have clarified the recipes on such points.

    All in all, I was very happy with this book, and I'm looking forward to exploring some flavors and techniques that are a bit new to me (walnut sauces, pomegranate juice, etc.).

    Despite the lack of polish in the recipe section, I highly recommend this book for the culinarily inquisitive who like to cook exploratively, without the comforting training wheels of precise measures and photos.


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

A Moveable Thirst: Tales and Tastes from a Season in Napa Wine Country Written by Rick Kushman and Hank Beal. By Wiley. The regular list price is $18.95. Sells new for $0.01. There are some available for $0.01.
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5 comments about A Moveable Thirst: Tales and Tastes from a Season in Napa Wine Country.
  1. I loved this book! Not only is A Moveable Thirst an informative read, it was a pleasure to read. The writing mirrors the rollicking ride these two authors obviously enjoyed while on their "Quest" in the Napa Valley. Highly recommend this to both the wine obsessed and anyone planning a wine tasting trip. Great fun!


  2. What a funny book. A 12 month journey visiting all wine tasting rooms in NAPA. Not a review of the wines, but a review of the tasting rooms. If you are into NAPA Wines, then this is the book to read. Each chapter is a short story. I would have given anything to be able to take their year long journey. Very well written....


  3. Best wine book I ever read. Captures the true essence of the wine making industry, and wine itself, completely and without the usual ethereal hyperbole.


  4. I had given up on Napa as too commercial but this book has renewed my interest and I will focus on Napa when I come to CA in April.


  5. Very detailed and spot on review of tasting rooms across Napa. We lived in the area for two years and would take this handy guide on our weekend adventures to Napa. Wish they would write one for Sonoma County. If you're thinking about planning a trip to Napa any time soon, be sure to pick a copy of this book up.


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

California's Central Coast: The Ultimate Winery Guide: From Santa Barbara to Paso Robles Written by Mira Advani Honeycutt. By Chronicle Books. The regular list price is $22.95. Sells new for $8.46. There are some available for $7.98.
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5 comments about California's Central Coast: The Ultimate Winery Guide: From Santa Barbara to Paso Robles.
  1. While this book has excellent reviews of some of the larger wineries in this area, I was surprised to see the omission of some smaller, very notable wineries on the Central Coast. For example, Per Pacco Cellars in San Luis Obispo isn't mentioned, and they have one of the finest Pinot Noirs on this strip of coastline. Aron Hill Vineyards is another small, family owned winery with a Cabernet Sauvignon that's outstanding, and Cayucos Cellars has a Syrah that's a powerful contender for the perfect wine with a holiday Prime Rib roast.

    That said, the reviews given in this book are very informative and extremely well-written. I loved the section about local foods and how that plays a role in your Central Coast wine country tour. The book gives many tips on where to eat, where to find picnic supplies, and lists various events at the wineries highlighted. For those elements alone, I'd love to give this book a higher rating.

    My concern is someone planning a trip here will overlook some outstanding, smaller wineries... all of which have tasting rooms, very friendly staffs and remarkable wines. If I may be so bold, buy this book for a list of the bigger wineries, but try to stop all along the way during your stay on the Central Coast to scout out others, and be sure to ask the locals for tips on where to uncover hidden gems.


  2. If you are planning a trip to the Central Coast and hungry for information, this is one of the first books to consider. The text is friendly, fun, and easy to read, as author Mira Advani Honeycutt does a wonderful job of teaching without preaching and devoid of pretense. What I find particularly helpful is the way the information is organized and the order it is presented -- breathtaking color photography is the perfect complement to Mira's literary style. A great gift for the Holidays!


  3. Mira Advani Honeycutt describes the central coast, its wineries and the people that live there in a personal and endearing way. Her book makes me want to get off the fast track, take time and relax in the beautiful and lush area that is the central coast and learn more about wine.


  4. Received the book quickly, and the product looked brand new. Highly recommend this vendor.


  5. This book was great! Amazing pictures, insightful, informative narratives about various wineries from Santa Barbara up through Paso Robles. Yes, it hits only a fraction of the vineyards in these wine regions, but it gave a wonderful starting place in knowing a little about some of them! We ended up making a point to hit 6 or 7 of these vineyards because of the write ups about the history or uniqueness of them. This book is fairly accurate--Beckman, Clautierre, Eberle, Rideau, etc...all great wineries. Don't take this book for an end-all guide to the only must see wineries, but it's a great starting point!


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

Safe Food: Bacteria, Biotechnology, and Bioterrorism (California Studies in Food and Culture, 5) Written by Marion Nestle. By University of California Press. The regular list price is $18.95. Sells new for $6.49. There are some available for $3.80.
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4 comments about Safe Food: Bacteria, Biotechnology, and Bioterrorism (California Studies in Food and Culture, 5).
  1. I just heard Marion Nestle on the Mike McConnell raido show. All I could ask myself during the interview was, "What are her intentions in writing this book." All I could think of during the interview was she was another Rachel Carson writing her "Silent Spring".
    My general impression was that she wrote this book to create fear in the food consumer, but never really offered any solutions except more government intrusion. She never presented, in the interview, the fault of the consumer in poor preparation practices or lack of control when eating out.
    In Nestle's view its either "big" business' fault by being cheapskates or the government's failure by not legislating.
    Yes I believe that there needs to be safeguards, but I also believe that regulations can become so excessive that it could become not profitable to produce food products. That is why there should be a certain amount of responsibility by the consumer (i.e. don't eat tuna fish that's been sitting out in the sun for a few hours).
    In the interview of besides presenting herself as a prophet of doom, I also found her to be very condescending to people who challenged her opinions.
    If you want to read her work, I can only recommend reading this with a very critical eye.


  2. "Safe Food" is a terrific look at the issues involved in keeping our food supply uncontaminated. It is also a look behind the scenes at how our democracy really works, and it's not a pretty sight. Corporations choosing profits over public health, government representatives more often than not siding with industry rather than consumers, corruption, greed, and ineptitude are all part of this fascinating story. Highly recommended!


  3. This is a well-written book by an author with experience in both the scientific and public affairs aspects of food quality and safety. Marion Nestle makes an effort to describe the complex scientific procedures associated with foodborne disease investigation, and the creation of bioengineered foodstuffs, reasonably clear to the layman / woman. Her message is simple and direct: as far as US government regulatory agencies, and the food industry itself, are concerned, food safety and wholesomeness is regarded as a secondary consideration to corporate profit. Her thesis is supported by a wide and varied list of references, including the scientific literature, print media, and quotes from participants involved in the struggle to make food safety one of the more urgent issues in contemporary public health. "Safe Food" covers such important topics as the outbreaks of E. coli caused by feces-contaminated ground beef; the ineptly regulated release of genetically engineered crops into farm systems and the spread of transgenes into native species; and the farcical (but ultimately tragic) mishandling of the "mad cow" epidemic by a British government blindly devoted to promotion of the beef industry. In each instance, Nestle documents how the food and agrochemical industries conspired to weaken federal oversight of food safety and quality by manipulating politicians and government officials, all in order to maximize profits.
    The book is not perfect; some of the sections describing various scientific procedures may have benefited from the inclusion of explanatory diagrams, rather than somewhat belabored text descriptions. But overall, "Safe Food" is an important and timely book, and one well worth reading by anyone concerned about the quality of the food we eat.


  4. As a food safety trainer I did not realise the rest of what has and is going on to deliberatly sell us food that is not fit for the purpose all in the interest in profit.

    One could have doubted what was written but we have just had the blatent disregard for food safety by 'CADBURY' the famous chocolate people claiming that only minute traces of bacteria may be present.

    You either have bacteria or no bacteria there is no halfway house, this book will open everyone's eyes.


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

the girl & the fig cookbook: More than 100 Recipes from the Acclaimed California Wine Country Restaurant Written by Sondra Bernstein. By Simon & Schuster. The regular list price is $30.00. Sells new for $16.02. There are some available for $11.69.
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5 comments about the girl & the fig cookbook: More than 100 Recipes from the Acclaimed California Wine Country Restaurant.
  1. As a local who lives and works within two blocks of the girl & the fig restaurant, I admit to being biased, but I just have to correct the previous reviewer: the girl & the fig restaurant is not and has never been a chain! There's only one restaurant, and it's my favorite place to take visitors who want to experience authentic Sonoma Valley cuisine at its very yummiest and most inspiring. The cookbook is a delicious introduction to the area for foodies who are still planning their first visit ... and a great way to keep the experience alive for those who can't wait to come back. I highly recommend it.


  2. My first experience with Girl and the Fig was it's first home in Glenn Ellen, CA. which is still there. The restaurant quickly became a favorite. The newer restaurant in the town of Sonoma, also excellent, has a wonderful bar. Great place to join friends for a glass of wine from their excellent wine list or enjoy one of the best martinis. They have also opened a restaurant in Petaluma, CA.
    I am delighted that they have finally come out with this wonderful cook book. It represents the best of the Girl and the Fig's cuisine. I love to cook and I am thrilled to have this cook book in my collection.


  3. I purchased this for a Christmas present and she loved it! There are some recipes that are a little too fancy for my taste, but otherwise this book includes great recipes to serve with individual wines.


  4. For me, this book was a fun and very usable introduction to a new world of foods...and the Rhone-style wines that go with them.

    I admit it: I'd rather go to Sonoma than to Napa. And when I do go to Sonoma, I always try to visit the author's restaurant, The Girl and The Fig, located on the corner of the Town Square. When I can't be there, I love using the book at home to remind me of being there.

    I like this book a lot and use it about once a month.


  5. I own and have cooked from countless cookbooks so my expectations are very high and this book delivered on them in spades. It includes more than 100 recipes from The Girl & the Fig restaurant and all strike a perfect balance of being refined and elegant with being appropriate for preparing in the home. You also don't have to visit The Girl & the Fig to appreciate it. I've never been and I still love these recipes.

    What makes this book a five star cookbook for me is that all of the recipes are very unique. I didn't feel like I was reading a collection of recipes I've seen elsewhere. Best of all, they turn out flawlessly. Of everything I have made so far my favorites are The Chicken Liver Mousse and Biscones. The latter has become my go-to recipe whenever I want to serve something like a berry shortcake. It was also the first recipe for a scone/biscuit recipe I've made that called for chopped hardboiled egg. I was also impressed with the mousse because although it was time consuming it wasn't challenging to make. It didn't really require any specialized skills.

    I think this book would be most appreciated by someone who likes refined flavors, isn't afraid to try more unusual or less mainstream ingredients (i.e. chicken livers), and who doesn't mind spending a little time in the kitchen. Most of the recipes have taken me well over 30 minutes and often have long ingredient lists. However, if neither of these things bother you the results are worth it. All the dishes are restaurant quality so you feel like you're getting a classy meal in the comfort of your home.

    Highly recommended.


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

Chez Panisse Cooking Written by Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters. By Random House. The regular list price is $22.95. Sells new for $10.00. There are some available for $6.23.
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4 comments about Chez Panisse Cooking.
  1. I was excited to receive this cookbook as a gift from my wife last year. Unfortunately it's a disappointing cookbook that doesn't get much use in my kitchen. There is one basic flaw that makes this book difficult to use, the layout of the recipes.

    When you're cooking a large and complex meal, you need enough of an explanation of the cooking procedures to understand what the author wants you to do. Unfortunately, there is simply far too much text in these recipes. Explanations about the cooking procedures is too detailed, it is in need of much editing. While complex French cooking does require a lot of attention to detail, it should be done without the commentary throughout the recipes.

    Having said that, there are still a ton of great recipes here. I love their risotto dishes; I made the wild mushroom risotto the other night and it was heavenly. I've also made their homemade pastas (tortellini or ravioli, can't remember which) with pumpkin filling and a browned butter and sage sauce (classic); again excellent. They also have a good treatment of seafood (decent squid recipes), lobster and other white fishes.

    You'll find a good repertoire of French food in this book, with a slight California twist (not enough to be classified as fusion). The recipes are generally fairly complex, so I would only recommend it for intermediate or advanced cooks. If you don't mind getting lost in the text of the recipes then you might want to consider this volume. I would strongly recommend that you peruse it first at a local bookstore to see if it's to your liking before making a purchase.



  2. This is the book that taught me how to cook. To appreciate this book, read the pages on roast chicken and risotto. There are many other cookery books out there that will tell you the components of the dish, but cannot describe the essence. I did not know food before I read this book. I would recommend reading this and Chez Panisse Vegetables. If you can only have 2 cookbooks, these are the two!


  3. `Chez Panisse Cooking' by Paul Bertolli, with Alice Waters, is a reminder of the kinds of things we miss in the downpour of fast cooking and low carb cooking books with which we have been showered in the last few years. Like most celebrity cookbooks, this can be seen as a very chatty book, with lots of headnotes and essays on various subjects such as wild mushrooms and risotto techniques. So, if all you want is a simple statement of recipes, you may be much happier with a Rachael Ray book or `1000 Italian Recipes' by Michele Scicolone, although even Scicolone's very heavily recipe oriented book has its share of commentary and notes on regional origins.

    Paul Bertolli is Alice Waters' second major chef at Chez Panisse, after Jeremiah Tower went off to create Stars and claim ownership of the invention of `California Cuisine'. While Tower (and Waters) are both heavily influenced by leading English writer on French cuisine, Richard Olney, Bertolli's center is clearly in Italy, with several homages to Provence and other French influences. One important foodie note is that Bertolli cites the Pellegrino Artusi's 100 year old `L'Arte di mangiar bene' (`Art of Eating Well'). I think this is notable because I have taken a quick look at a recent translation of this work and was not very impressed with the material. It may have been a very good book 100 years ago, but I did not immediately see how it stood up to the great wealth of Italian cuisine books we have today in English. But what do I know. I obviously must go back and reconsider my opinion.

    What Bertolli attends to better than practically every other cookbook author I can think of (except for the very high-end restaurant chefs such as Thomas Keller and Rick Tramonto) is taste and the nature of his ingredients. In giving instructions for a broccoli dish, I can think of very few other chefs who would take the care to suggest that you buy older broccoli for the long braise, as this will stand up better to the heat over a longer time. This is not to say that Bertolli goes as far into essays on major ingredients in the style of his later, excellent `Cooking By Hand' book. This later book goes so far as to leave the world of cookbooks and enter the world of culinary essays you typically find from John Thorne, with the difference that Bertolli is a professional cook and amateur writer, while Thorne is a professional writer and amateur cook. I did, however, find the essay on yeast bread baking to be as good as anything I have seen elsewhere for the length.

    Note that the reference to sources of materials is not in an appendix at the end of the book, but placed at the end of the relevant essay on technique. So, names and addresses of sources for bread flour and home flourmills can be found at the end of the essay on bread baking.

    This probably explains why Bertolli succeeds in committing two of the prime fallacies exposed in a recent `Good Eats' episode by Alton Brown. Bertolli rolls out the old chestnuts about searing being a means of sealing in moisture into meat and not washing mushrooms with any water to prevent adding any more to the liberal amount of moisture in mushrooms already. I give Alton Brown great credit for shining light on these myths, but I am quite at ease with forgiving Bertolli his repeating this conventional wisdom, especially since Harold McGee's article on the searing / moisture myth came out about the same time this book was published.

    Oddly enough, the focus on works by McGee, Brown, and Shirley Corriher may be partly due to the rarity of works with Bertolli's form of culinary phenomenology. What I mean here is that Bertolli shows that there is a lot to know about good and interesting cooking which has nothing to do with science, but just simple observation and experience.

    Chez Panisse cookbooks have been published by Random House and by Harper Collins, and they are uniformly attractive to the eye, as they are entertaining and informative to the mind. While both of these publishing houses have great reputations for putting out good books, I have to congratulate Ms. Waters for her stylish work in print. I miss the great woodcuts which appear only on the cover of this volume and not throughout, but Bertolli's text needs all the space it can get. Another item which may seem small to some, but which always boost's my opinion of a book is the fact that the Table of Contents lists every single recipe by name and by page number. I am also very happy that this book divides dishes by more by principle ingredient than by course.

    One of my routine checks on the quality of a cookbook is an examination of the recipes for stocks. And, I am quite pleased that Bertolli has given me another important rule of thumb on stock making, something I have never read elsewhere (or, just as important, if I did read it, it did not stick in my memory). The point is that all things being equal, meat stocks are better if you go light on the vegetables. Vegetable flavors can always be added in when the dish is made, but the whole story about a chicken stock should be the chicken.

    If I were not an incurable cookbook collector, this book would be high on my list of sources for my daily cooking, right behind Julia Child, Marcella Hazan, and Jamie Oliver (yes, that Jamie Oliver).

    A truly excellent book and cookbook!


  4. This is a great cookbook. There's a reason Chez Panisse is famous and this cookbook proves it.


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Posted in California Cooking (Friday, March 19, 2010)

At Home in the Vineyard: Cultivating a Winery, an Industry, and a Life Written by Susan Sokol Blosser. By University of California Press. The regular list price is $16.95. Sells new for $10.68. There are some available for $9.75.
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5 comments about At Home in the Vineyard: Cultivating a Winery, an Industry, and a Life.
  1. This book, down to the "pioneer" theme,and dustjacket synopsis, seems to owe a significant debt to Louisa Thomas Hargrave's The Vineyard, which covered similar territory at a similar time on Long Island's North Fork.


  2. I found Hargrave's autobiography pompous and dull, but Susan Sokol Blosser's account of building a life in the Dundee Hills of Oregon speaks to me on many levels--as a woman working in the wine industry, a woman working with her husband, a woman running her own business, and a mother. Susan turns her trials into triumphs and exercises a sense of humor along the way. From the Great Goose Experiment to the day her tearful son rides his bike all the way to school by himself, this is a story that will transport you into "The Life" of owning a vineyard and winery, with a judicial salting of reality and romance.


  3. Pour a glass of Evolution Wine and kick back with this entertaining memoir. If the technical aspects of starting and maintaining a business is not a favorite reading topic there is still plenty of life drama going on that is highly readable and easy to relate to. Having lived in Oregon for 22 years and seen (and tasted) the state's wine industry mature I was fascinated with finding out the inside story. If you live in Oregon you might enjoy a few "I was there" moments when the author describes the wonderful concert series in her vineyard. Ah yes...Johnny Mathis under the full moon. Wonderful memory, wonderful book.


  4. Well, except when the weather deals them an unwelcome clout....

    I live smack dab in the middle of wine country (California) myself, but am no vintner. And it happens I took a scouting trip to the McMinnville vicinity in Oregon last year, thinking it a prospective new home. So, when I spied the lush, green-vined cover of AT HOME IN THE VINEYARD, I was hooked and had to investigate one woman's (and her family's) experiences establishing and nurturing grapes from plant to bottle.

    Susan Sokol Blosser writes a chatty, wide-ranging history beginning in late 1970, when she gave birth to her first son and her then-husband Bill "closed the deal on our first piece of vineyard land." She traces the stages of the vineyard and the winery that was built later with an easy, honest style that disarms and charms. It is soon apparent that this woman is an engine of energy. During the years her three children are small, she mainly toils in the vineyard, tilling, planting, picking, spraying, fertilizing, etc. But she also finds time to join the school board and various associations. She also teaches briefly at a McMinnville college. Later, she is twice a candidate for state public office, once losing by a questionable "whisker." As the family wine business expands, so does the wine industry in Oregon. Susan and Bill do their part to uphold and promote the burgeoning reputation Oregon wine slowly acquires -- particularly its Pinot Noir which grows full-bodied in the cooler Northwest climate. In 1990, Susan takes over from Bill as president of their winery and slowly refinances and then gains full ownership of the enterprise. She changes winemakers to improve quality. She travels widely and often to see distributors and explore new markets. She modernizes the labels on their bottles and gains national attention with a blended white wine. She deals with lawsuits and legislative hurdles. She also decides to shift to organic operations and embraces sustainable agriculture. Then, in the early years of the new millennium, she decides she will focus on gradually handing over the reins of power to the son and daughter who have decided to follow their parents into the family business.

    While the author relates the chronology of the vineyard and winery she owns and manages, she doesn't ignore the personal side. AT HOME IN THE VINEYARD includes some cute anecdotes about farm pets, and it mentions family concerns such as her father's Alzheimer's without dwelling on them. At one point, I wondered how in the world anyone could juggle so many balls in the air -- family, business, many friendships, and political activism. Something seemed bound to tumble. Well, something did, and the author unflinchingly, and without wallowing, tackles the changes in her life after the children grew up and left the nest.

    For anyone who has ever considered starting up a winery, AT HOME IN THE VINEYARD illustrates the kind of commitment and fortitude such an undertaking requires. But even if you aren't planning on being the entrepreneur that all the members of the Sokol Blosser family are; if you seek stories about rural life, want to know more about the Willamette Valley, or are interested in one outspoken and undaunted woman's adventures as a corporate executive, then snag a copy of AT HOME IN THE VINEYARD and -- maybe with a glass of wine in hand -- imbibe it cover to cover.


  5. At Home in the Vineyard: Cultivating a Winery, an Industry, and a Life by Susan Sokol Blosser is one book that seems to offer an exception to the adage, "you can't judge a book by its cover".

    Just as the subtitle suggests, At Home in the Vineyard effectively describes the slow, steady transformation of an estate winery, a wine industry, and a human being over a period of more than 30 years. It is an intimate study of all three components delivered in a narrative style that keeps you engaged from start to finish.

    This book is first and foremost a memoir describing the author's experiences planting a vineyard, starting a winery, and managing both through several decades of trials and tribulations. In addition, Susan provides the reader a first-hand historical account of the Oregon wine industry from its beginnings in the early 1970's. Along the way, she offers candid insights into her personal and professional growth as a wife, mother, business owner, daughter, sister, community leader, friend, and neighbor.

    Until reading this book, I never realized the integral role Susan Sokol Blosser played in developing Oregon's wine industry. Nor did I know about the lead role Sokol Blosser Winery took toward adopting sustainable practices, becoming one of the first vineyards to be certified by LIVE and the first winery to be certified by LEED. This is impressive considering the impact these efforts have had on the rest of the state's wine industry.

    Having read a variety of wine memoirs, Susan's story stands out as one of the more insightful and intriguing books of its genre. At Home in the Vineyard should appeal to the wine enthusiast, aspiring winemaker, and Oregon pinot fan alike. Anyone reading this book will come away more connected to the people and places behind Oregon wine in general, and Sokol Blosser Winery in particular.

    If you are seeking to understand Oregon wine in a deeper, more connected way, then you owe it to yourself to read At Home in the Vineyard.


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The Summertime Anytime Cookbook: Recipes from Shutters on the Beach
The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (California Studies in Food and Culture)
Secrets of Success Cookbook: Signature Recipes and Insider Tips from San Francisco's Best Restaurants
The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia
A Moveable Thirst: Tales and Tastes from a Season in Napa Wine Country
California's Central Coast: The Ultimate Winery Guide: From Santa Barbara to Paso Robles
Safe Food: Bacteria, Biotechnology, and Bioterrorism (California Studies in Food and Culture, 5)
the girl & the fig cookbook: More than 100 Recipes from the Acclaimed California Wine Country Restaurant
Chez Panisse Cooking
At Home in the Vineyard: Cultivating a Winery, an Industry, and a Life

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Last updated: Fri Mar 19 23:52:31 PDT 2010